Komodo National Park (Indonesian: Taman Nasional Komodo) is a national park in Indonesia located in the Lesser Sunda Islands, where the provinces of East Nusa Tenggara and West Nusa Tenggara meet. The park includes three large islands—Komodo, Padar, and Rinca—and 26 smaller islands, covering a total area of 1,733 km² (669 sq mi), with 603 km² (233 sq mi) of land. The national park was created in 1980 to protect the Komodo dragon, the world's largest lizard. Later, it was expanded to protect other species, including marine life. In 1991, the park was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a Man and Biosphere Reserve. It is considered one of the world's 25 biodiversity hotspots.

Komodo National Park was chosen as one of the New 7 Wonders of Nature. The waters around Komodo Island have a high level of marine biodiversity. The islands are part of the Coral Triangle, a region with some of the most diverse marine life on Earth.

The park is also a WWF Global 200 Marine Eco-region, a WWF/IUCN Centre of Plant Diversity, one of the world's Endemic Bird Areas, and an ASEAN Heritage Park.

History

The island of Padar and part of Rinca were set up as nature reserves in 1938.

Komodo Island became a nature reserve in 1965. In January 1977, it was also named a biosphere reserve under the UNESCO Man and Biosphere Reserve Programme.

In 1980, the islands of Komodo, Padar, Rinca, and Gili Motong, along with nearby waters, were declared a national park covering 75,000 ha (190,000 acres; 750 km).

In 1984, the national park was expanded to 219,322 ha (541,960 acres) to include the marine area Mbeliling / Ngorang (31,000 ha or 77,000 acres) and the Wae Wuul / Mburak Recreation Parks (3,000 ha or 7,400 acres) on mainland Flores. The marine zone covers 60% of the national park area.

In 1991, the national park was recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

In 2005, it was designated an ASEAN Heritage Park.

The park was first created to protect the Komodo dragon (Varanus komodoensis), which was first discovered by scientists in 1912 by Lieutenant J. K. H. van Steyn van Hensbroek, the Civil Administrator in Reo, Flores Island. Over time, conservation goals grew to include protecting all the area’s biodiversity, both on land and in the ocean.

The park is considered one of the world’s 25 biodiversity hotspots, a designation from Conservation International. It is also listed as one of the WWF Global 200 Marine Eco-regions, a UNESCO Man and Biosphere Reserve, a WWF / IUCN Centre of Plant Diversity, and one of the world’s Endemic Bird Areas.

Geography and climate

The park includes a coastal area in western Flores, the three larger islands of Komodo, Padar, and Rinca, 26 smaller islands, and the surrounding waters of the Sape Straits. The islands in the national park were formed by volcanic activity. The land is generally rough and uneven, with rounded hills that reach heights of up to 735 meters (2,411 feet). The climate is one of the driest in Indonesia, receiving 800 to 1,000 millimeters (31 to 39 inches) of rainfall each year. During the dry season, which runs from May to October, temperatures can reach up to 40 degrees Celsius (104 degrees Fahrenheit).

Human settlements

Little is known about the early history of the people who live on Komodo Island. They were under the rule of the Sultanate of Bima, but the island’s distance from Bima likely meant the Sultanate had little control over its people, except for occasional requests for tribute.

Most people living near the park are fishermen who originally came from Bima (Sumbawa), Manggarai, South Flores, and South Sulawesi. People from South Sulawesi belong to the Sama-Bajau or Bugis ethnic groups. The Sama-Bajau were once travelers who moved between areas in Sulawesi, Nusa Tenggara, and Maluku to find food and work. Descendants of the original Komodo people, called the Ata Modo, still live on the island, but there are no longer any people who are fully Ata Modo. Their culture and language are slowly blending with those of more recent arrivals.

The human population in the park lives in four settlements: Komodo, Rinca, Kerora, and Papagaran. These settlements existed before 1980, when the area became a national park. In 1928, only 30 people lived in Komodo Village (called Kampung Komodo locally), and about 250 people lived on Rinca Island in 1930. The population grew quickly, and by 1999, there were 281 families, totaling 1,169 people, on Komodo Island. Komodo Village had the largest population in the park, mainly because many people moved there from Sape, Manggarai, Madura, and South Sulawesi. The number of homes in Komodo Village increased from 30 in 1958 to 194 in 1994 and 270 in 2000. Papagaran Village is similar in size, with 258 families and 1,078 people. According to a 2000 report by PKA & TNC, Komodo Village had 1,508 people in 2010, and Papagaran Village had 1,262 people. As of 1999, Rinca had 835 people, and Kerora had 185 people.

In 2004, 3,267 people lived in the park, while 16,816 people lived in the area just outside the park.

By 2007, 97% of people living in the park relied on the ocean for their income. However, they struggle financially because of limited access to resources, rising living costs, a growing population, and few options for sustainable work. These challenges put more pressure on the environment.

Tourism became an important industry in the area starting in the late 1980s and 1990s. However, this industry mainly operates outside the park in Labuan Bajo, and most of the money earned from tourism leaves the region, going to large national or international companies.

The average education level in the villages of Komodo National Park is the fourth grade of elementary school. Each village has an elementary school, but new students are not accepted every year. On average, each village has four classrooms and four teachers. Many children from small islands in the Kecamatan Komodo area (Komodo, Rinca, Kerora, Papagaran, Mesa) do not finish elementary school. Fewer than 10% of those who complete elementary school go on to high school, as most jobs (like fishing) do not require further education. Children must travel to Labuan Bajo to attend high school, but this is rare in families who rely on fishing.

Most villages in and around the park have limited access to fresh water, especially during the dry season. Water quality worsens during this time, leading to illness among people. Businesses also use large amounts of water for tourism, often at lower costs than local residents. Malaria and diarrhea are common in the area. On Messah Island, where 1,969 people live, there is no fresh water available. Families must bring water in jerrycans by boat from the mainland, costing Rp100,000 per month. Most villages have a local medical facility with staff, including at least a paramedic, but the quality of care is low.

Traditional communities in Komodo, Flores, and Sumbawa have faced outside influences, and traditional customs are becoming less common. Television, radio, and increased travel have sped up changes in these communities. Many people have moved into the area, and now most villages include people from more than one ethnic group.

The Manggarai people are mostly Christians. Most fishermen living near the park are Muslims. Haji leaders (people who have completed the Islamic pilgrimage) have a strong influence on community development. Fishermen from South Sulawesi (Bajau, Bugis) and Bima are also mostly Muslim.

There are several cultural sites within the park, especially on Komodo Island. However, these sites are not well recorded, and many questions remain about the history of human life on the island. Outside the park, in Warloka Village on Flores, there is a Chinese trading post that is of interest. Archaeological finds from this site have been stolen in recent years. Most people in and around the park speak Indonesian. The Bajo language is used for daily communication in most communities.

Flora and fauna

The hot and dry climate of the park, which has savannah vegetation, makes it a good home for the Komodo dragon (Varanus komodoensis). These reptiles live only on the islands of Komodo (1,700), Rinca (1,300), Gili Motang (100), Gili Dasami (100), and Flores (about 2,000). They are not found on Padar.

The park also has rainforests, deciduous forests, and mangroves. The savannah areas have lontar palm (Borassus flabellifer) and grasses like Chloris barbata, Heteropogon contortus, and Themeda triandra. Deciduous forests include trees such as Cassia javanica, Diospyros javanica, Harrisonia brownii, Murraya paniculata, Oroxylum indicum, Piliostigma malabaricum, Schleichera oleosa, Sterculia foetida, and Tamarindus indica.

Cloud forests are found in only a few places above 500 meters. These areas support plants like Ficus drupacea, Glycosmis pentaphylla, Podocarpus neriifolius, Terminalia zollingeri, and Uvaria rufa. Coastal areas have mangrove forests, which grow in sheltered bays on the three larger islands. Mangrove species include Avicennia marina, Bruguiera gymnorhiza, Rhizophora stylosa, and red mangrove (Rhizophora mangle).

Fringing and patch coral reefs are widespread, especially along the north-east coast of Komodo. The park has a rich variety of marine life, including whale sharks, ocean sunfish, manta rays, eagle rays, pygmy seahorses, false pipefish, clown frogfish, nudibranchs, blue-ringed octopus, sponges, tunicates, and coral.

Many types of cetaceans, such as dolphins, sperm whales, and blue whales, live in the waters near the park. Omura's whales, which are rarely studied, have been seen in the park's waters. Endangered dugongs also live in some areas of Komodo.

The number of land animal species in the park is not very high, but the area is important for conservation because some species are found nowhere else. Many mammals are from Asia, including rusa deer, wild boar, water buffalo, crab-eating macaques, and civets. Some reptiles and birds are from Australia, such as the orange-footed scrubfowl, lesser sulphur-crested cockatoo, and helmeted friarbird.

The Komodo dragon (Varanus komodoensis) is the most famous reptile in the park. It is the largest lizard in the world. Female dragons can grow up to 2 to 2.5 meters long and weigh about 70 kilograms. Males can reach 3 meters in length and weigh up to 136 kilograms. On average, females are about 2.29 meters long and weigh 68 to 73 kilograms, while males are about 2.59 meters long and weigh 79 to 91 kilograms.

Twelve snake species live on the islands, including the Javan spitting cobra (Naja sputatrix), eastern Russell's viper (Daboia siamensis), Lesser Sunda Islands pit viper (Trimeresurus insularis), blue-lipped sea krait (Laticauda laticaudata), and Timor python (Python timoriensis). Lizards include nine skink species, geckos, limbless lizards, and monitor lizards like the Komodo dragon. Frogs include the Asian bullfrog (Kaloula baleata), the endemic Komodo cross frog (Oreophryne jeffersoniana), and Oreophryne darewskyi. Frogs are usually found in higher, wetter areas. Saltwater crocodiles (Crocodylus porosus) once lived in the park but are now extinct there.

Mammals in the park include the Timor rusa deer (Cervus timorensis), which is the main food for Komodo dragons, horses (Equus sp.), water buffalo (Bubalus bubalis), wild boar (Sus scrofa vittatus), crab-eating macaques (Macaca fascicularis), Asian palm civets (Paradoxurus hermaphroditus lehmanni), the endemic Rinca rat (Rattus rintjanus), and fruit bats. Domestic animals like goats, cats, and dogs live in the park but are not native.

One of the main bird species is the orange-footed scrubfowl (Megapodius reinwardti), which lives on the ground. In savannah areas, 27 bird species were observed. The zebra dove (Geopelia striata) and spotted dove (Spilopelia chinensis) are the most common. In mixed tropical deciduous forests, 28 bird species were observed, with the helmeted friarbird (Philemon buceroides), green imperial pigeon (Ducula aenea), and lemon-bellied white-eye (Zosterops chloris) being the most common. Other birds include the green junglefowl (Gallus varius), great-billed parrot (Tanygnathus megalorynchos), and the critically endangered lesser sulphur-crested cockatoo (Cacatua sulphurea). Two eagle species live in the park: the white-bellied sea eagle and the extremely rare Flores hawk-eagle, which is found on Rinca and Flores and possibly on Komodo Island.

• Komodo dragon feeding on a carcass
• Water buffalo
• Crab-eating macaque
• Komodo dragon stalking deer. Note the tracking device on the dragon's neck
• Komodo on Rinca

Management

Komodo National Park (KNP) was created as a special unit under the Directorate-General of Forest Protection and Nature Conservation (PHKA), which is part of the Ministry of Forestry. The park is managed by the Komodo National Park Authority, located in West Flores. In the same region, but as a separate unit, is the Directorship of Conservation Areas. The Nature Conservancy (TNC), an American environmental organization, leads the Coastal and Marine Program.

In 1995, TNC partnered with the Department of Forestry and Conservation (PHPA) to manage Komodo National Park for 25 years. A management plan was developed with TNC and put into action in 2000 to address growing problems of resource use, both on land and in the ocean. The plan received support from the World Bank but faced opposition from some local people and groups who said they were not consulted and would not benefit from the plan. Most pressure on marine resources comes from fishing communities and outside businesses. Rules limiting resource use mostly affect people living in the park, who have few other ways to earn a living and depend on the park’s resources. Providing alternative ways to earn money is part of the management plan, but communities in the park have not yet seen these efforts fully address their needs.

A non-profit company, PT Putri Naga Komodo (PT PNK), was created to manage tourist facilities in the hope that the park would become financially self-sufficient. PT PNK was partly funded by TNC and the World Bank. After five years of operation, in 2010, PT PNK’s permit was canceled. Following this, more illegal fishermen entered the area as enforcement weakened after TNC left, which had previously helped stop harmful fishing practices. In early 2012, divers and conservationists found many coral sites that had been destroyed, resembling gray, lifeless landscapes. Illegal fishermen continue to use explosives like fertilizer and kerosene in bottles, or cyanide in squeeze bottles, to stun and catch fish. Over the past two years, more than 60 illegal fishermen have been arrested. One suspect was shot and killed after he tried to escape by throwing fish bombs at rangers.

Park managers are studying the current population of Komodo dragons in the park. Komodo National Park includes five islands where Komodo dragons live, which are among the most important habitats for the species. Two large islands, Komodo and Rinca, have the largest populations, while three smaller islands—Padar, Gili Motang, and Nusa Kode—have smaller groups. To help grow the Komodo dragon population, efforts focus on protecting habitats like grasslands and forests on Komodo Island, which support prey such as the Timor deer. These efforts have helped keep the populations on Komodo and Rinca relatively stable. Conservation work on smaller islands has increased because smaller populations are more likely to face extinction.

Since the 1980s, the deaths of several fishermen have been a source of controversy. The circumstances of these deaths are disputed. Park patrols, including police and navy members at the time, claimed they acted in self-defense, but fishing communities accuse park managers of intentionally killing the fishermen.

In late February 2014, Brimob Special Police shot dead two people who were illegally hunting deer when they fired homemade weapons at the officers.

Tourism

Scuba diving is popular in the park because it has many different types of sea life. Six famous diving spots include Manta Alley, Crystal Rock and Castle Rock, Batu Bolong, Yellow Wall, the Cauldron, and Tatawa Besar.

Ecotourism, which focuses on the ocean, is the main way the park tries to pay for itself. Entrance fees and tourism licenses help cover costs for running the park. A joint venture between TNC and a tourism company was given the right to manage tourism in the park. This arrangement has caused problems because some people say the joint venture makes decisions without others knowing. Many people near Komodo say they were not asked about choices that affect their lives. Tourism growth has also led to land being sold by poor people to foreign businesses.

Komodo Island and Rinca were once part of Flores. They are separated from Sumbawa Island by the Sape Strait. The ocean in the Strait is very deep. The Pacific Ocean to the north and the Indian Ocean to the south are at different heights. This causes strong ocean currents during tides. These currents can be dangerous near Komodo’s east coast, especially for people without experienced guides.

The number of visitors to the park increased from 36,000 in 2009 to 45,000 in 2010. Most visitors were foreign tourists because traveling to this remote area is expensive for local people. The park can handle up to 60,000 visitors each year, according to local tourism officials.

Several types of boat tours operate in the park, including luxury scuba diving trips, short snorkeling trips, and 4-day, 3-night tourist boats between Lombok and Flores. These boats run often but have a history of safety issues. In August 2014, one of these boats sank, and two tourists were lost. Strong currents and waves separated passengers and crew who were wearing life jackets.

The Indonesian government has focused on making Komodo National Park a very expensive tourist spot since 2019. This has led to changes in how land is used, limiting access for local people and causing trees to be cut down. The government supports large tourism companies to help achieve this goal. A local tribe called the Ata Modo has a deep connection to the Komodo dragon, as one of their myths says they are twins. The tribe has tried to create tourism activities that reflect their culture to compete with foreign companies. In 2019, the governor of East Nusa Tenggara announced plans to move some indigenous people from Komodo Island, but local people protested this idea. By 2021, the government stopped this plan.

In early 2019, the governor of Nusa Tenggara Timor announced a plan to close part of the park for one year to improve it. Other areas, like Rinca and Padar Islands, would remain open. This plan was not popular with local people and others. The Indonesian Environment and Forestry Minister said the central government would decide about conservation areas. A final decision was expected by mid-2019.

In July 2019, it was confirmed that Komodo Island would close for about one year starting in 2020. The governor said Rp 100 billion (about $7.2 million) would be used for conservation. This plan is controversial because the governor suggested charging high fees for foreign tourists, while local people worry about losing income. The park was closed for six months due to the COVID-19 pandemic but reopened to local tourists in July 2020, then to domestic tourists in August 2020, and finally to foreign tourists later. In December 2022, the government canceled plans to increase entrance fees.

The park may close again in mid-2025 to help protect its delicate environment.