Umm ar-Rasas (Arabic: أم الرّصاص; ancient name: Kastron Mefa'a) is located 30 kilometers southeast of Madaba in the Amman Governorate in central Jordan. It was once connected to the King's Highway, a major ancient road, and is part of the Jordanian Desert's semi-arid steppe region. The site is linked to the biblical settlement of Mephaat mentioned in the Book of Jeremiah. The Roman military used the site as a strategic base, and later, Christian and Islamic communities lived there. In 2004, the site was added to the UNESCO World Heritage list because of its ruins from the Roman, Byzantine, and early Muslim periods. In 1986, the Franciscan academic society in Jerusalem, Studium Biblicum Franciscanum (SBF), excavated the northern part of the site, but much of the area is still covered by debris.

Early history

During the Early Bronze Age III-IV, Iron Age II, and Roman-Byzantine periods, many people lived in areas west of the Dead Sea. The site of Mephaat is mentioned in the Bible as one of the cities on a plateau that was destroyed completely (Jeremiah 48:21). Roads such as the King's Highway connected these ancient cities, and the main route became the foundation for the Via Traiana Nova, built by Roman Emperor Trajan (98–117 AD). This road and its branches made travel easier, and Roman military camps were placed along the way to protect against attacks from enemies in the desert, known as the Limes Arabicus. Eusebius of Caesarea wrote in his book Onomasticon that Mephaat was the location of a Roman army camp near the desert (K.128:21). An inscription found in a Byzantine church there showed the area was called "Castron Mephaa," supporting the idea that Umm-ar Rasas and the biblical Mephaat are the same place.

Mosaics

The most important discovery at the site was the mosaic floor of the Church of St. Stephen. The mosaic was created in 785 and was found after 1986. It is the largest mosaic floor in Jordan and is perfectly preserved. The central part of the mosaic shows scenes of hunting and fishing. Another section shows drawings of important cities in the region and Egypt, including Alexandria, Pelusium, Philadelphia (Amman), Madaba, Esbounta (Heshbon), Belemounta (Ma'an), Areopolis (Ar-Rabba), Charac Moaba (Karak), Jerusalem, Nablus, Caesarea, and Gaza. The edges of the mosaic are decorated. Six artists signed their names on the work: Staurachios from Esbus, Euremios, Elias, Constantinus, Germanus, and Abdela. North of the Church of St. Stephen, there is another mosaic floor in the older (587) Church of Bishop Sergius, but it is damaged. Four other churches were also found nearby, and some had small pieces of mosaic decoration remaining.

Byzantine period

By the 4th century C.E., pilgrimage made Palestine the center of the Christian world. Many devout men and women traveled through the desert to visit places important in religious stories and to connect with their God. By the 5th century C.E., more pilgrims came, and many Christians decided to live in the desert, forming communities of monks and nuns. Umm ar-Rasas became a religious center with several Byzantine churches. One important discovery at Umm ar-Rasas is the Church of Saint Stephen, which has detailed and artistic mosaics. Greek writing found in the mosaics shows the church was built between 756 and 785 C.E. This time period matches the Abbasid Caliphate, a time when Muslim rulers controlled the area. The mosaics show scenes of cities in Palestine, Jordan, and near the Nile Delta with labels explaining their names. However, the mosaics at Umm ar-Rasas do not show famous holy places like Bethlehem, Hebron, or Nazareth, unlike the nearby Madaba Map.

A key feature of Umm ar-Rasas is a tall structure about 1 mile (1.6 km) north of the ruined walls. This building, believed to be a stylite tower, was used by Christian ascetics who lived alone at the top and as a place to call people to prayer. The tower has carved Christian symbols on all four sides and remains today as proof of the once-thriving religious community that existed during the Byzantine era as a place for spiritual learning.

Muslim conquest

In the summer of 634 C.E., Muslim armies entered Palestine and attacked areas along the Mediterranean coast, including the Gaza Strip. Local Arab-speaking tribes living in the desert supported the Muslim forces because they were unhappy with Byzantine rule, which helped the Muslims conquer the region more easily. The successful campaign caused little destruction, and many cities in the Holy Land surrendered to Muslim rule without major fighting. Byzantine churches were rarely turned into mosques, but during the Abbasid period, the Muslim government passed strict laws limiting the use of Christian images. At the Church of Saint Stephen, mosaics were damaged by removing and rearranging the colored pieces. After the Muslim victory, Christians still visited holy places, but the number of pilgrims decreased because of the risk of being imprisoned by Muslim officials. Many churches and monasteries built by Byzantine Christians were eventually abandoned.

Gallery

• The Church of St. Stephen is an abstract design of Kastron Mephaa, with a central column.
• Restoration efforts were completed on the Tower in 2017.
• Interior mosaics depict Askalon.
• The arch is shown from an oblique angle.