Skellig Michael (Irish: Sceilg Mhichíl [ˌʃcɛlʲəɟ ˈvʲɪçiːlʲ]), also known as Great Skellig (Irish: Sceilig Mhór [ˈʃcɛlʲəɟ woːɾˠ]), is a rock formation with two tall peaks located 11.6 kilometers (7.2 miles) west of the Iveragh Peninsula in County Kerry, Ireland. The name "Skellig" comes from the Irish word sceilig, meaning a piece of stone. The island is named after the archangel Michael. Its smaller neighboring island, Little Skellig (Irish: Sceilig Bheag), is not easily reached. Both islands were formed about 374 to 360 million years ago during a time when mountains were forming, including the nearby MacGillycuddy's Reeks mountain range. Later, rising sea levels separated them from the mainland.

Skellig Michael covers about 22 hectares (54 acres) of rock, with its highest point, called the Spit, reaching 218 meters (714 feet) above sea level. The island has two main peaks and a central valley named Christ’s Saddle. Its landscape is steep and difficult to live in. It is most famous for a monastery built between the 6th and 8th centuries and for the many animals that live there, including gannets, puffins, razorbills, and about 50 grey seals.

Archaeologists find the island important because the monastery and surrounding structures are in excellent condition. The monastery on the northern peak is located at an elevation of 170 to 180 meters (550 to 600 feet). Christ’s Saddle is at 129 meters (422 feet), and the flagstaff area is 37 meters (120 feet) above sea level. Visitors can reach the monastery by climbing narrow, steep stone steps from three landing points. The hermitage on the southern peak is very hard to reach and is mostly closed to the public. Because of the difficulty of traveling to the island and the dangerous landing spots, it is only accessible during the summer months. In 1996, UNESCO named Skellig Michael a World Heritage Site.

Etymology

The word "Skellig" comes from the old Irish word "sceillec," which means "a small or steep area of rock." This word is not common in Irish place names and is found only in a few other places, such as Bunskellig in County Cork and the Temple-na-Skellig church in Glendalough, County Wicklow. It might also come from Old Norse, from the word "skellingar," which means "the resounding ones." An earlier but rarely used name for the island was "Glascarraig," which means "the green rock."

A poem mentions that Irr died near the western coast, and his bones are in Skellig's high cliffs. Arranan also died in the same wreck, and his body never reached Ireland's shores.

The first known mention of the Skelligs appears in Irish historical records, which describe a shipwreck that happened around 1400 BC. This event is said to have been caused by the Tuatha Dé Danann, a supernatural group from Irish mythology. According to the story, Irr, the son of Míl Espáine (a figure sometimes linked to the arrival of people in Ireland), was traveling from the Iberian Peninsula but drowned and was buried on the island. Daire Domhain, known as "King of the World," is said to have stayed on the island around 200 AD before attacking the army of Fionn mac Cumhaill near Ventry. A text from the 8th or 9th century mentions that Duagh, King of West Munster, fled to "Scellecc" after a conflict with the Kings of Cashel in the 5th century. However, it is unclear if this event actually happened. Other early references to Skellig appear in ancient texts like the Lebor Gabála Érenn, Cath Finntrágha, and the medieval Martyrology of Tallaght.

Geography

Skellig Michael is a steep, rocky hill (or "crag") covering about 18 hectares (45 acres) on the Atlantic coast near the Iveragh peninsula in County Kerry. It is located 11.7 kilometers (7 and a quarter miles) west-northwest of Bolus Head, at the southern end of Saint Finian's Bay. Its twin island, Little Skellig, is a mile closer to land but much more difficult to live on because of its tall, sheer cliffs. Lemon Rock, a small island, is 3.6 kilometers (2 and a quarter miles) farther inland. Puffin Island, nearby, is another place where seabirds live. The Skelligs, along with some of the Blasket Islands, are the westernmost parts of both Ireland and Europe, except for Iceland.

The island has two main peaks: the northeastern summit, where a monastery was built (185 meters above sea level), and the southwestern point, where a hermitage is located (218 meters above sea level). These peaks are separated by a low area called Christ's Saddle.

The islands are made of Old Red Sandstone and compressed slate, formed between 360 and 374 million years ago during the Devonian period. At that time, Ireland was part of a larger landmass located south of the equator. The area's hills and valleys were shaped during the Hercynian period, about 300 million years ago, when mountains were formed. When the Atlantic Ocean rose, it created deep inlets like Bantry Bay and separated the Skelligs from the mainland. The rock is tightly compressed and has many cracks. Erosion along a major fault line caused a large part of the rock to break away, forming Christ's Saddle. Over time, wind and water have worn away much of the rock.

The Wailing Woman rock is in the center of the island, near the path to Christ's Saddle, 120 meters (400 feet) above sea level. It is the only flat, fertile area on the island and shows signs of medieval farming. The path from Christ's Saddle to the summit is called the Way of the Christ, a name that shows how dangerous the climb is. Notable features along this path include the Needle's Eye peak, a tall rock chimney 150 meters (490 feet) above sea level, and 14 stone crosses, some named for the difficult climb. Higher up is the Stone of Pain area, including the Spit, a narrow rock reached by steps only 60 centimeters (2 feet) wide. The ruins of a medieval church are lower on the path, near the older monastery.

The island has three main coves: Blind Man's Cove to the east, Cross Cove to the south, and Blue Cove to the north. These coves can be used as landing points from the sea. Steps are carved into the rock from the landing points to above sea level. Blind Man's Cove, on the eastern side, is the main landing point but is exposed to strong waves, making it hard to reach outside of summer. A pier built in 1826 leads to a small stairway to a now-disused lighthouse. The steps split into two paths, with the older one leading directly to the monastery.

Blue Cove is the hardest to reach and is only accessible about 20 days a year. Writer Des Lavelle notes that the monks of old built a stairway to this cove, suggesting that weather conditions in the past were better than they are now.

Ecology

Skellig Michael has exposed sea cliffs and three bays. The land inside the island has thin soil on steep slopes, with some areas of plants that are affected by sea spray. Despite this, the island has a more varied ecosystem than the mainland. As an island, it offers a safe place for many types of plants and animals, many of which are not commonly found in Ireland. It is home to many seabirds, which are protected because the island is a nature reserve owned by the government. The Skellig Islands were declared a Special Protection Area in 1986 due to their large number and variety of bird species.

The island has nests for peregrine falcons. Other birds found there include fulmars, Manx shearwaters (Puffinus puffinus), storm petrels, gannets, kittiwakes, guillemots, and Atlantic puffins. A group of goats lived on the island until recently. The island also has rabbits and house mice, which were introduced in the 19th century, likely by people who worked at the lighthouse. Grey seals rest on the island’s rocky ledges.

History

Monks from the Celtic Christian tradition established a monastery on Skellig Michael between the 6th and 8th centuries. Some sources claim Saint Fionán founded the site in the early 6th century, but historians are unsure about this. Many islands near the southwest coast of Ireland have early Christian monasteries because the area offered isolation and plenty of rock for building. A high number of these monasteries are located near the Iveragh and Dingle peninsulas.

The first clear record of monastic activity on Skellig Michael is a note about the death of "Suibhini of Skelig" from the 8th century. The Annals of the Four Masters describe events at Skellig Michael between the 9th and 11th centuries. These records mention a Viking attack in 823, when "Skellig was plundered by the heathen and Eitgal [the abbot] was carried off and he died of hunger." Vikings attacked again in 838, destroying churches on Skellig, Kenmare, and Innisfallen Island. The Augustinian abbey in Ballinskelligs was founded in 950, the same year Blathmhac of Sceilic died. The annals also note the death of Aedh of Scelic-Mhichíl in 1040.

It is believed that no more than twelve monks and an abbot lived at the monastery at any one time. The site was continuously occupied until the late 12th or early 13th century and remained a place for pilgrimage through the modern era. The monks’ diet differed from those on the mainland because there was less land to grow grain. Vegetable gardens were important, and fish, bird meat, and eggs were common foods. Possible reasons for the monastery’s abandonment include colder weather, Viking raids, and changes in the Irish Church. Likely, a mix of these factors caused the monks to leave and move to Ballinskelligs Abbey.

The site was dedicated to Saint Michael the Archangel by at least 1044, when Aedh of Scelic-Mhichíl died. This dedication may have begun earlier, around 950, when a new church was added to the monastery (a common practice for dedications) and named Saint Michael’s Church. The island’s connection to Saint Michael, who is said to have killed serpents, may link to Saint Patrick. A 13th-century German source claimed Skellig was the site of the final battle between Patrick and Ireland’s venomous snakes.

By the early 16th century, Skellig Michael was a regular destination for pilgrims.

The island remained in the possession of the Catholic Canons Regular until 1578, when Ballinskelligs Abbey was dissolved due to the reformation under Elizabeth I. Ownership then passed to the Butler family, who held it until the early 1820s. The Corporation for Preserving and Improving the Port of Dublin (a predecessor to the Commissioners of Irish Lights) bought the island for £500 from John Butler of Waterville. The corporation built two lighthouses and living quarters on the island by 1826.

In 1871, Lord Dunraven conducted the first detailed archaeological survey of Skellig Michael in his book Notes on Irish Architecture. He described the monastery as "so solemn and so sad that none should enter here but the pilgrim and the penitent." He criticized the lighthouse project, calling the changes "objectionable modern walls." The Office of Public Works took charge of the monastery in 1880 and later purchased the island (excluding the lighthouses and related structures) from the Commissioners of Irish Lights.

Skellig Michael was designated a World Heritage Site in 1996. The International Council on Monuments and Sites, an advisory body to the World Heritage Committee, described the site as having "exceptional universal value" and noted it as a "unique example of an early religious settlement." The site’s preservation, due to its "remarkable environment," and its ability to illustrate "the extremes of Christian monasticism" in North Africa, the Near East, and Europe were also highlighted.

Monastic features

The monastery is built into a flat area on a slope 180 meters (600 feet) above sea level. It includes two small rooms for prayer, a burial area, crosses, cross-shaped stones, six dome-shaped beehive-like cells (one of which has collapsed), and a medieval church. The cells and prayer rooms are made using dry stone construction with curved supports, while the church, built later, uses stone pieces joined with mortar.

The largest hut, called Cell A, has a floor size of 14.5 meters by 3.8 meters and is 5 meters tall. Its walls are straight before narrowing to support the dome roof. Stones inside act as pegs, placed about 2.5 meters apart to hold up the roof, and may have supported upper living areas. Stones on the outside likely held thatch roofing. Some cells have recesses that might have held cupboards. The main prayer room is boat-shaped and measures 3.6 meters by 4.3 meters. It has an altar and a small window on its east wall. A smaller prayer room is on its own flat area, farther from the main complex. It measures 2.4 meters by 1.8 meters by 2.4 meters and has a low door (0.9 meters by 0.5 meters) and a large window on its northeast wall.

St. Michael's Church was built in the 10th or early 11th century. It was originally made mostly of lime mortar and imported sandstone from Valentia Island. Today, it is mostly collapsed, with only its eastern window remaining. A modern gravestone from 1871, for a lighthouse keeper’s family, is located in the church’s center.

The Monk’s Graveyard is partially collapsed and smaller than when it was used. It has stone crosses with simple carved designs on their west sides, two of which are highly detailed and among the site’s earliest features. Over 100 stone crosses have been found on the island. Large upright stones are on its north and west sides. Two dry stone leachta (burial mounds) are present. The larger one, between St. Michael’s Church and the main prayer room, likely predated both and once had a large upright cross at its western end, now broken. The other is near the monastery’s retaining wall. Human remains have been found under both.

The main prayer room is 200 meters above sea level and 15 meters below the mountain’s top. It is the largest and in good condition. The main prayer room remains mostly intact, with its original altar, bench, water cistern, and what may be the remains of a shrine. Its masonry matches the style of early Christian Ireland.

Inside the main building, the space is 2.3 meters long and 1.2 meters wide. The enclosure wall is made mostly of small stones. Though worn and mostly collapsed, it was once about 1.5 meters high. Today, the interior is filled with stone rubble and fragments of a 2.14-meter-tall stone cross. The leacht outside was likely used as a shrine or altar and is too small to have been a burial site.

The hermitage is on the opposite side of the island from the monastery. It was built below the south peak and is harder to reach. Access is restricted and requires prior permission. The south peak is reached via a narrow, steep path called Christ’s Saddle, with rock-cut steps. These steps are exposed to strong winds, sometimes near hurricane force, and pass through a narrow rock chimney called the Needle’s Eye.

Though less studied than the monastery, the hermitage likely was built later, as its construction would have required moving large stones up steep cliffs, suggesting the monastery was used as a base. Frost erosion along the island’s fault line provided materials for its construction.

The hermitage includes several enclosures and platforms on three main rock terraces: the Oratory, Garden, and Outer Terraces.

The outer terrace is on three stepped ledges far from the main complex and is hard to reach. Its only masonry is a 17-meter wall along its steep edge. Historian Walter Horn noted that the hermitage’s harsh location reflects the ascetic lifestyle of its builders, as described in the Cambrai Homily: “This is our denial of ourselves… if we receive loss and suffering for Christ’s sake.”

Each of the three landing areas leads to long flights of steps (east, south, and north steps) built by early monks. These steps may have been part of a larger network, with traces of older steps found elsewhere. Basal sections of the steps were rock-cut, later replaced with dry stone masonry where sea waves no longer reached. Later, the base steps were replaced with dry-stone paths.

The north steps connect Blue Cove and have two long, steep flights (upper and lower steps). The upper steps, made of dry stone, are in poor condition in some areas due to erosion and falling rocks. The lower steps, cut into rock, are weathered by the sea, with some ground collapsing. Ramps replaced missing steps, and a parapet was added in the 1820s during lighthouse construction.

The south steps are most commonly used today and connect to the monastery via Christ’s Saddle. They cross archaeological features like a prayer station and walling. They are in good condition and likely repaired by lighthouse builders. Their weakest point, above Christ’s Saddle, is damaged by frequent use and requires regular maintenance. Some steps near the landing are nearly inaccessible, stopping short of both the sea and the highest levels.

The lower part of the east steps above Blind Man’s Cove was damaged by dynamite in 1820 during pier and lighthouse construction and is now inaccessible. Steps above this level, on a steep climb, were recently conserved in 2002–2003, with overgrowth removed. These steps are now in good condition.

In culture

In the first episode of the 1969 BBC documentary Civilisation: A Personal View by Kenneth Clark, the art historian Kenneth Clark described the island's buildings and pathways as "an extraordinary achievement of courage and determination." He noted that "when looking back at the great civilizations of twelfth-century France or seventeenth-century Rome, it is difficult to believe that for nearly a hundred years, western Christianity survived by holding on to places like Skellig Michael, a high rock eighteen miles from the Irish coast, rising 700 feet [210 m] above the sea." Adam Nicolson describes the island in his 2004 book Seamanship.

Several films and documentaries have used the island as a filming location. The island was used to film the planet Ahch-To in Star Wars: The Force Awakens (2015) and Star Wars: The Last Jedi (2017). Aerial footage of the island was also included in Star Wars: The Rise of Skywalker (2019). It also appeared in the final scene of Heart of Glass (1976).

Emma Donoghue's 2022 book Haven is a fictional story about the first monks who settled on Skellig Michael in the 7th century.

Access and tourism

Skellig Michael has three places where visitors can land, and the choice depends on the weather. The island gets about 11,000 visitors each year. To protect the site, the Office of Public Works limits daily visitors to 180. The island’s local climate and rough, open ground make the journey from the mainland difficult. Once on the island, the paths are steep and without safety features. The main path to the island’s highest point has 600 stone steps.

Skellig Michael’s remote location and difficulty to reach have kept it mostly untouched for a long time. Tourism began in the late 1800s when people could rent rowing boats for 25 shillings. It became a popular destination in the 1970s when regular boats started taking passengers. By 1990, demand had grown so much that the Office of Public Works arranged ten boats from four mainland harbors.

Today, four boat licenses are given to tour operators who take visitors to Skellig Michael during summer (May to October), depending on weather. Even if the mainland is calm, the sea near the island can be rough. Waves from faraway low-pressure areas in the Atlantic Ocean hit the island. Waves can reach up to 10 meters high near the pier and 45 meters along the lighthouse. When large waves recede, they often leave seaweed, sponges, and anemones on the rocks, making landing harder.

A typical visit lasts about six hours. The Office of Public Works warns that the journey is risky because the steps are steep, rocky, old, and without safety features. Climbing is not allowed during wet or windy weather. Diving near the island, mostly around Blue Cove, is allowed in summer.

Some reports say climate change has caused more rain, bigger waves, and more frequent storms around the island. These changes may affect tourism in the future.

Gallery

• Stairs that go up to the highest point
• A trail along the side of a high rock
• Small rooms where monks lived
• The main door to the monastery area
• Looking at the island from the shoreline
• Scene seen during the nighttime