The Palace of Shaki Khans (Azerbaijani: Şəki xan sarayı or Şəki xanlarının sarayı; Persian: کاخ خان‌های شکی or قصر خان‌های شکی) is located in Shaki, a city in northwestern Azerbaijan. It is a historic building that was once used as a summer home by the Shaki khans. The palace was built in 1797 during the leadership of Muhammad Husayn Khan Mushtaq. It is well-known for its unique layout, beautifully decorated inside spaces, and way of blending with the natural environment around it.

In 1998, the Palace of Shaki Khans was suggested for inclusion on the UNESCO World Heritage List by Gulnara Mehmandarova, who was then the President of the Azerbaijan Committee of the International Council on Monuments and Sites (ICOMOS). On July 7, 2019, the historic center of Shaki, including the Khan’s Palace, was officially added to the UNESCO World Heritage Site list.

Geographical area

The town of Sheki is located in the north-west of the country, at an elevation of 632 meters above sea level. It lies on the left bank of the Kish River and along the southern slopes of the Greater Caucasus Mountains. The area has moderate humidity, fertile soil, and thick forest cover. The Gurjana River flows from east to west and divides the city into two parts: the higher southern area and the lower northern area in the valley.

The historical center of Sheki, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is located south of the Juma Mosque, north to the foothills of the Khan plateau, west along F. Khan Khoysky Street, and east to the right bank of the Gurjana River.

The way Sheki was planned was influenced by its natural environment, climate, and how local people adapted to these conditions. The city’s layout follows the natural slope of the land, with buildings often arranged to match the shape of the terrain. This helps reduce erosion and manage water flow. Roofs are usually sloped to help water drain. The area’s heavy rainfall and surrounding landscape also affect the city’s appearance.

The geography and climate of Sheki directly influenced the design of the Sheki Khan’s Palace. Built on higher ground in the city’s northern, fortified district, the palace was placed to improve defense, provide clear views, and blend with the natural landscape. The palace’s direction and garden layout consider sunlight, wind patterns, and available water sources.

Physical description

The Khan’s Palace is located within the fortress walls, in the north-eastern part of the keep. The rectangular palace courtyard is surrounded by lower privacy walls. The courtyard has three terraces, and the palace building is on the highest terrace. A rectangular fountain and two plane trees are located in front of the southern façade.

The Khan’s Palace is a two-story building built in the style of residential houses in Sheki. What makes the palace different from other buildings is its detailed decorative elements. The main southern façade includes a portal with stalactites, fretwork decorated with colored glass, and carved and painted patterns on the plaster. The façade is divided into three sections by two portals. The central section is made of fretwork panels, which also form the southern walls of the main halls on both the ground and first floors. The side sections have similar designs, with fretwork panels on the first floor and surface screens on the ground floor. Two sections have fretwork windows, and four sections have panels with floral patterns in sgraffito style. The edges of the floors and interior walls on the façade are decorated with striped sgraffito patterns on floral-ornamented plaster.

Portals are different from the rest of the façade. They have deep arches and are divided into two floors, with entrance doors on the ground floor and a balcony on the second floor. The upper parts of the entrances and balconies are decorated with stalactites. The second-floor stalactites are covered with mirror pieces. Rhombus-shaped vertical ribbon patterns on the sides of the balconies and edges of the façade, floral designs on the portal arches, colorful patterns on the panels, and fretwork filled with colored Venetian glass make the façade look grand and beautiful. Between the balconies and corridors, there are fretwork doors that match the ground-floor entrance patterns. Fretwork windows are above the door shelves. The balcony is decorated with stalactites, and eight rows of complex stalactites are covered with mirror fragments. The colors and patterns of the southern façade resemble a large oriental carpet.

The northern façade has a flat plastered surface with simple designs that deepen at the edges. The main decoration is a large fretwork panel that opens from the first-floor hall. The northern façade also has sgraffito patterns that follow the lines of interior walls, but these patterns are simpler than those on the southern façade. They use only two colors: light yellow and dark brown. The western and eastern façades are very simple. Only doors with stairs are found on these plastered surfaces. On the western façade, there are also two windows and a door on the first floor that lead to a staircase going to the roof. It is unclear what the original design of this door and staircase was. According to historian Leonid Bretanitsky, there may have been a wooden staircase starting at the northern façade and ending at the door on the first floor of the western façade. No other information about this possible staircase is available.

Preservation and restoration

From 1955 to 1965, a full restoration was completed under the guidance of Niyazi Rzaev. Two skilled architects, Kamal Mamedbekov and Nikolai Utsyn, helped create drawings for measuring and restoring the palace. A restoration workshop was set up in the ceremonial hall on the second floor of the palace, and the rooms next to the hall were used for the architects. The drawings made by Mamedbekov and Utsyn became the foundation for restoring the entire palace complex. The work was carried out by artist F. Hajiyev and shabaka master A. Rasulov based on these drawings.

The last full restoration, from 2002 to 2004, was supported by the World Bank and led by a German team (Uwe Henschel, Dietrich Wellmer, Elisabeth Wellmer, Andreas Lessmeister) from the company "Denkmalpflege Mecklenburg GmbH" (now "Neumühler Bauhütte GmbH"). Research found the following:

• Two-thirds of the foundations were built on older structures. These foundations were made of rock and were still strong. The walls were 60 cm deep.
• Some damage was found in the vertical wooden support structures.
• Strong concrete beams were placed on the wooden designs on the southern and northern walls. These beams added extra weight to the wooden structures.
• Drawings from the 1950s and 1960s showed the roof was made of wood. However, research found the roof’s gable structures were made of steel and rested on concrete. The roof was covered with metal shingles and connected to wooden beams using iron wire, which caused damage.
• The beams between floors were made of oak, and the beams between them were made of pine. Both were damaged by woodworms.
• The ground floor walls were made of river stones and raw bricks, while the first floor walls were made of fired bricks.
• The plaster made of straw and clay was cracked and damaged.
• The supports of the shebekes were warped, with missing wooden and glass parts.
• The floors were made of glazed clay.
• There were many gaps in the wall paintings.

To fix these issues, the following work was done:

• The metal roof was removed and replaced. The concrete beams on the walls were left because removing them might cause problems. A new wooden roof was built on the side walls to reduce pressure on the building. The roof was covered with stainless steel plates and ceramic tiles, restoring its historic look and protecting it from rain. The first-floor beams were attached to the roof’s wooden structure.
• The floor beams were checked, and damaged parts were repaired.
• The wooden wall beams were inspected and reinforced where needed.
• A new drainage system was added to remove rainwater.
• The ground floor used to have floors made of glazed rammed earth. However, because dust from tourists harms wall paintings, the floors were changed to wood. Parquet-style hardwood flooring was laid over bricks in corridors and wooden planks in rooms. The fountain in the central hall was restored.
• Bukhari flues were cleaned and restored.
• The condition of wall paintings and the paints used were studied, and a restoration plan was created. Paintings on doors were restored.
• The plaster and decorations on the façades were restored.
• The fretworks were cleaned, and missing parts were replaced. New glass was imported to match the originals and was 2 mm thick.
• Landscaping was done in the courtyard.
• Electricity was added, but no central heating system was installed. Anti-humidity equipment was placed in each room to protect wall paintings and provide heat in cold weather. All communication lines were set up for the museum.
• A new building was built for museum staff, and a ticket office and souvenir shop were opened.
• The electricity, water, and sewage systems were updated, and video surveillance and fire alarms were installed.

Leonid Bretanitsky thoroughly studied the Khan’s Palace by reviewing historical documents and data. The palace was restored and changed several times since the 1830s. Major work was done between 1848 and 1851 by architect Cambiaccio under Prince Vorontsov’s orders. Local Sheki craftsmen, including Usta Bagir Usta Ali oglu, Eyyub Haji Ibrahim oglu, and Haji Huseyn Karbalayi Yusif oglu, helped with the work. Most changes focused on the main façade and ground floor. The main façade’s plaster and decorations were renewed, and the ground floor’s main hall was replastered with new wall paintings. However, wall paintings in side rooms were not restored after the walls were replastered. Doors, ceilings, and mantelpieces were repaired. The ground remained rammed earth. The roof was rebuilt with painted oak shingles instead of ceramic tiles. The fountain in the central hall was removed and not restored. The report did not mention other buildings in the palace complex, which were destroyed by 1851. Only the two-story palace building in Shaki fortress survived. Although the building was repaired and rebuilt many times, these changes did not greatly affect its appearance. After the Shaki Khanate joined the Russian Empire, the palace was controlled by local officials and repaired repeatedly. Restoration was done by Karim agha Fateh, poet and grandson of Hussein Khan Mushtag, between 1848 and 1851.

In General Yermolov’s photo album, pictures from the mid-19th century show two windows on the first floor of the eastern façade. Later, these windows were sealed with bricks, and their interiors were decorated with wall paintings.

The restoration of the Khan’s Palace was discussed in an Avercom plenum on April 25, 1991. It was decided that the restoration would be handled by Narkomprosom, with 25 million rubles allocated for repairs in Shusha and Shaki. A restoration report was submitted based on a 1939 review by architect Pyotr Baranovsky at the Commonwealth Academy of Architecture.

Restoration work was done in the 1950s. Art critic Valentina Antonova wrote about the work of restoration artist I. Baranov, describing "whimsical and cheerful fighting scenes" on 18th-century wall paintings in Nukha’s Khan’s Palace, which reminded her of lively Eastern markets.

History

The ancient city of Sheki is more than 2,700 years old and was an important trade center along the Silk Road. It helped connect Eastern and Western cultures through its trade routes, crafts, and silk production. From 1538 until 1738, Sheki was ruled by the Safavid Empire. After the empire fell, local leaders formed partially independent regions, leading to the creation of the Sheki Khanate in 1743 under Haji Chalabi Khan. This was one of the first and strongest Azerbaijani khanates to form after the empire’s collapse.

The Sheki Khanate remained a political and cultural center until the Russian Empire took control in 1819. During this time, Sheki developed a unique style of architecture. The most famous building from this period is the Sheki Khan’s Palace. The palace was built in Nukha village after a major flood in 1772. Historical records suggest it was completed in either 1762 or 1797.

Old plane trees stand in front of the palace’s main entrance, which is located in the upper part of the city inside the city walls. The palace is surrounded by walls even though it is already within the walled area. This was a common feature in many cities of that time. A plan from 1853 shows that the palace had several buildings for the ruling family and their servants. However, the plan does not clearly explain the original purpose of some structures, as they were later adapted for use by the Russian military.

According to the Treaty of Gulustan (1813), Northern Azerbaijan, including the Sheki Khanate, became part of the Russian Empire. A document from 1819 describes the palace complex in detail. It lists the Khan’s Palace as the main building in a larger area that included the Khan’s Mosque, harem, bathhouse, warehouses, stables, and other structures. These buildings were inside the walls and covered most of the palace grounds. Later research shows that many of these buildings were added over time by the khans who lived there.

Inside the palace, there are paintings of battles, hunting scenes, and poetic writings made with bright natural colors. The palace is a classic example of traditional construction methods used in the region. Materials like local stone, bricks, painted wood, and colored glass were used not only for beauty but also to protect against the climate and earthquakes. Outside the palace, Sheki’s city layout followed a feudal pattern, with neighborhoods (called mahallas) centered around places like mosques, public baths, mills, and other community buildings.

The Khan’s Palace reflects the Gajar architectural style, which was popular in Iran during the late 18th and early 19th centuries. This style was also common in Azerbaijani buildings of that time. The palace’s design is similar to the Sardar’s Palace in Irevan and the garden pavilions from the late Safavid period. It also shares features with other historic buildings in Sheki, such as the Shekikhanov House.

In 1946, Konstantinov wrote in his article "Nuha": "This Magnificent Palace—the top of luxury and taste of Persian architects, was built in 1790 by Shiraz resident Haji Zeynal Abdin."

In 1947, poet Nikolai Tikhonov described the palace in his story "The Roads—the trails." He noted that the palace’s paintings and patterns are well preserved and show that art, poetry, and philosophy were valued in ancient Nukha.

In 1968, the historical area of Yukhari-Bash near the Sheki Khan’s Palace was declared a historical-architectural reserve. The palace was nominated for UNESCO’s World Heritage List in 2001 by Gulnara Mehmandarova, president of Azerbaijan’s ICOMOS committee. In 2010, UNESCO’s director-general, Irina Bokova, visited the palace during an official trip to Sheki.

On July 4, 2012, the 250th anniversary of the palace was celebrated in Sheki. Ambassadors from nearly 30 countries, international organizations, and local leaders attended the event.

Legal framework

The historical center of Sheki, including the Khan’s Palace, was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2019 because it meets standards (ii) and (v). This recognition shows that Sheki is an important example of a traditional human settlement and a place where cultures shared ideas along the Silk Roads. Now, the site must follow international rules to protect its heritage, and any work to fix or build there must be carefully planned.

The World Heritage Site has two protected areas: a buffer zone and a core zone. The buffer zone has the same boundaries as the “Yukhari Bash” National State Historical-Architectural Reserve, which was created in 1967. The core area, which is the central part of the city (120.5 hectares), is the most protected part. The larger reserve covers 283 hectares. Both areas are protected by national laws, especially the Law on the Protection of Cultural Heritage of Azerbaijan.

Any work to restore or build in Sheki’s historical area must follow specific rules, including:

• The Conservation Master Plan (CMP) of 2020, created by the Reserves Management Center under the State Tourism Agency.
• The Management Plan (2016, updated in 2020), which was revised after the Reserve was moved to the State Tourism Agency.
• The Restoration Manual and Infill Design Manual, which guide how to restore and build using traditional styles, materials, and city layouts.

The CMP explains rules about land use, protecting the landscape, and limits on changes. All projects must follow the goals and rules in these documents.

The State Committee on Urban Planning and Architecture and the Ministry of Culture review and approve plans. All projects must follow rules that allow changes to be reversed if needed, match the area’s style, and cause the least possible changes. These rules follow both UNESCO and national guidelines.

Research

The Shaki Khan Palace was first studied by the Department of Azerbaijan Monument Protection. Later, the Institute of History named after Bakikhanov of the SSR Academy of Sciences conducted a more detailed study of the monument. In the following years, the Department of Architectural Works under the Council of Ministers of the Azerbaijan SSR helped study monuments in Azerbaijan.

Early research on the palace included work by Professor Fridolin and Sharifov. In 1936, a group of experts from the Moscow State Museum of Eastern Cultures, including Denike, Chepeleva, Weimar, and Bolotova, gathered information about the monument.