Changdeokgung (Korean: 창덕궁; Hanja: 昌德宮) is a former royal palace located in Seoul, South Korea. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a historic site in South Korea. It is one of the best-preserved Korean palaces. Changdeokgung and its neighboring palace, Changgyeonggung, are together known as the "East Palace."

Changdeokgung was built in 1405. It was the second palace built in Seoul, after the official main palace of the Joseon dynasty, Gyeongbokgung. Even though Gyeongbokgung had the highest legal status, many kings preferred to live in Changdeokgung. In 1592, during the Imjin War, Changdeokgung and all other palaces in the city were completely destroyed. After the war, due to limited money, Gyeongbokgung was not repaired, but Changdeokgung and Changgyeonggung were. This made Changdeokgung the main palace of Joseon for several centuries.

In the late 19th century, during the reign of the second-to-last Korean monarch, Gojong, Gyeongbokgung was rebuilt, and the royal family moved from Changdeokgung to Gyeongbokgung. However, in 1897, the royal family moved again to another palace, Deoksugung. In 1907, Gojong was forced to resign by Japan, and his son, Sunjong, the last Korean monarch, became king. Sunjong made Changdeokgung his official palace. In 1910, Japan colonized Korea and changed the palace significantly. The Korean royal family continued to live in Changdeokgung after Korea was liberated in 1945 and until the late 20th century.

Today, Changdeokgung is a major tourist attraction. It was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997. The palace's Secret Garden, which was once a favorite place for Korean kings, is now mostly open to the public. Some areas of the garden require advance booking for tours.

Name

"Changdeokgung" means "Palace of Prospering Virtue." The palace was given this name on the 25th day of the 10th month in 1404, not long after the first part of its construction was completed.

Changdeokgung and the nearby palace Changgyeonggung are called together the "Eastern Palace" (동궐; 東闕; Donggwol; Tonggwŏl) because they are situated to the east of the city's main palace, Gyeongbokgung.

History

In 1392 (Korean calendar), the Joseon dynasty was created. Later, the capital city, Hanyang (also known as Hanseong and later called Seoul), was built, and Gyeongbokgung became its main palace (법궁; 法宮; pŏpkung). Because of political problems, the capital was moved temporarily to Kaesong and then returned to Hanyang in 1404. King Taejong (r. 1400–1418) then ordered the construction of Changdeokgung as a secondary palace (이궁; 離宮; igung). Some scholars believe Taejong wanted to avoid Gyeongbokgung because he had bad memories of family deaths there and thought the palace had unlucky feng shui. Historians Lee et al. also suggest that Taejong wanted a secondary palace to be less affected by political influences near Gyeongbokgung.

A temporary office was created to manage the palace’s construction. Changdeokgung’s location was chosen on the 6th day of the 10th month in 1404, and work began that day. Under the supervision of Yi Chik, many artisans, soldiers, monks, and commoners helped build the palace. The first part of the palace was completed on the 19th day of the 10th month in 1405. Taejong entered the palace on the 20th day of that month and held a celebration. At that time, only a few buildings, such as the royal bedchambers and bathhouse, were finished. The palace had either 287 or 192 rooms. There was likely not enough space for government offices in Changdeokgung, so officials used buildings near Gyeongbokgung and moved between the two palaces. Construction continued. In 1406, a shrine called Insojeon and a Buddhist shrine were built in the rear garden, along with a pavilion named Gwangyeollu. In 1408, a pond was dug, and in 1411, another pavilion was completed. In 1408, the former king Taejo died at Changdeokgung.

For the rest of his reign, Taejong mainly lived in Changdeokgung. Restoration of Gyeongbokgung was ordered only after Taejong moved to Changdeokgung. Even after Taejong gave up the throne, he lived in Suganggung, a palace near Changdeokgung, and influenced his son Sejong the Great (r. 1418–1450). Construction of Changdeokgung continued even after Taejong’s abdication. Part of a building collapsed, and the person in charge was exiled as punishment. By 1418, the palace had enough facilities to hold important ceremonies instead of Gyeongbokgung. During Sejong’s reign, he focused more on Gyeongbokgung and moved between the two palaces often. In 1426, Sejong ordered names for many structures in Changdeokgung. In 1427, he moved out of Changdeokgung and lived mainly in Gyeongbokgung, though he still visited both. King Sejo (r. 1455–1468) expanded Changdeokgung to the north and east, using 19,000 people from Hanyang for the project. King Seongjo (r. 1469–1495) also expanded the palace and lived there for his entire reign. In 1475, he named all 29 of the palace’s gates and held a ceremony for their plaques. Because there was not enough space for all the queens, he decided to expand Changgyeonggung instead. King Yeonsangun (r. 1495–1506) renovated the palace, but work stopped when he was removed from power.

In 1592, during the Imjin War (1592–1598), all the city’s palaces were burned down. Some records suggest Korean commoners may have set the fires to destroy palace records, but this is debated. When Japanese forces entered the city on the 2nd day of the 5th month in 1592, Gyeongbokgung was still intact. Japanese discipline was high at first, but after suffering defeats, they burned buildings and killed locals.

After the war, efforts began to repair the city’s palaces. Plans were made to restore Gyeongbokgung, but these were not carried out. Some people argued against rebuilding Gyeongbokgung because of its bad feng shui, and the Joseon economy was too weak to fund repairs. Instead, Changdeokgung was restored, with many buildings recreated in their original locations. The first round of repairs was completed during King Gwanghaegun’s reign (r. 1608–1623) on the 1st day of the 9th month in 1610. However, Gwanghaegun had little interest in Changdeokgung and lived in a temporary palace called Gyeongungung (later renamed Deoksugung). In 1617, he built In’gyŏnggung and Kyŏngdŏkkung.

In 1623, during the Injo coup that placed King Injo (r. 1623–1649) on the throne, rebels burned most of Changdeokgung. Only a few buildings, such as Injeongjeon and parts of government offices, survived. Injo was crowned at Gyeongbokgung and lived in Changgyeonggung. He ordered the demolition of In’gyŏnggung and Kyŏngdŏkkung and used their materials to repair Changdeokgung. In 1626, he moved to Changdeokgung and lived there for the rest of his life.

During the 17th century, Changdeokgung was expanded further. In 1647

Design and layout

The palace was designed using ideas from ancient Chinese traditions and practical needs. Changdeokgung follows a layout called the "three gates and three courtyards" system, which comes from the Chinese book Kaogongji, part of the Rites of Zhou. This system suggests that palaces should have three main areas that are entered in order. The first area is public, the second is for political activities, and the third is private. These areas include the first gate, Donhwamun, and its courtyard (used for government and public events), the second gate, Jinseonmun, and its courtyard (used for political meetings between the king and his people), and the third gate, Injeongmun, and its courtyard (where the king and his family lived). Some scholars divided the palace into parts: the outer area, inner area, East Palace, government buildings, and rear gardens (also known as the Secret Garden).

Changdeokgung is mainly arranged from west to east, unlike Gyeongbokgung, which is arranged from south to north. Because of this, the outer part of the palace is to the east of the inner part.

There are many mulberry trees near the palace. The leaves of these trees can be used to feed silkworms. This may be connected to the fact that some queens raised silkworms in the palace.

Changdeokgung and Changgyeonggung are closely connected and have been described as functioning as one palace. When there was not enough space in Changdeokgung, buildings were often built in Changgyeonggung instead. The two palaces are separated by a gate called Geonyangmun. Over time, disagreements arose about which buildings (especially those near the border) belonged to which palace. These disagreements included the East Palace, Junghuidang, and the Jeoseungjeon in Changgyeonggung.

According to a 1912 document, the two palaces were considered part of the same government area: Waryong-dong. During the colonial period, a border wall was built to physically separate the two palaces. In 1963, this wall was used to create an official legal boundary between them. This boundary remains today.

Landmarks

Oejo ( 외조 ; 外朝 ) is the part of a palace where the king handled important government work. It is divided into two areas: the chŏngjŏn ( 정전 ; 正殿 ; jeongjeon ; main area ) and the p'yŏnjŏn ( 편전 ; 便殿 ; pyeonjeon ; secondary area ).

Inside palaces, government offices are called kwŏllaegaksa ( 궐내각사 ; 闕內各司 ; gwollaegaksa ). Changdeokgung's buildings were small and used for daily tasks with the king. Larger government offices were usually outside the palace, such as on Yukcho Street. After a fire in 1592 during the Imjin War, these offices were rebuilt in 1647. Many offices from Gyeongbokgung were later moved to Changdeokgung. Between 1907 and 1909, all buildings in front of Seonjeongjeon and Huijeongdang were removed.

Naejŏn ( 내전 ; 內殿 ; naejeon ) is the area of a palace where the king or queen lived. Palace women, especially those from the Naemyŏngbu, also used this space. When space ran out, buildings were built in Changgyeonggung instead. Naejŏn burned in 1833 and was rebuilt the next year. It was completely destroyed in a fire in 1917.

The East Palace ( 동궁 ; 東宮 ; Donggung ; Tonggung ) was the home, study area, and office of the crown prince. When it was not used by the crown prince, it had other purposes. Before the Imjin War, it was outside Changdeokgung. It was rebuilt after the war but later moved closer to the palace. Its buildings were shared by Changdeokgung and Changgyeonggung. Its main gates are on the east, so it was mainly accessed from Changgyeonggung. After Gyeongbokgung and its East Palace were rebuilt in the late 1800s, Changdeokgung's East Palace lost its purpose. Most buildings in this area no longer exist.

The rear garden ( 후원 ; 後苑 ; Huwon ; Huwŏn ), also called the Secret Garden ( 비원 ; 秘院 ; Biwon ; Piwŏn ), is located behind both Changdeokgung and Changgyeonggung. Both palaces share access to it. The garden was used for leisure, politics, ceremonies, and military training. Activities included hunting, parties, and martial arts. Before the 20th century, most people could not enter the garden. A new road was built there in 1909. The garden has artificial ponds, pavilions, and over 160 types of trees. More than 70 trees are over 300 years old. The highest point is in the center, and the land slopes toward the east and west.

The stream Ongnyucheon ( 옥류천 ; 玉流川 ; 'Jade Stream') runs along the north side of the Secret Garden. It was built in 1636. Access to this area was closed in 1979 to protect the environment. It reopened to the public on May 1, 2004, but only by reservation. The pavilions Soyojeong, Taegeukjeong, and Cheonguijeong are called the "Three Pavilions of the Royal Grove" ( 상림삼정 ; 上林三亭 ; Sangnimsamjŏng ) and are known for their beauty.

Geumcheon ( 금천 ; 錦川 ; 'silky water') is a stream that once flowed through the palace. Water no longer flows through it.

The Changdeokgung Geumcheongyo ( 창덕궁 금천교 ; 昌德宮 錦川橋 ; Ch'angdŏkkung kŭmch'ŏn'gyo ) is a bridge over Geumcheon. It was completed on March 18, 1411, and is the oldest surviving bridge of its kind in Joseon palaces. It has two arches and features statues of mythological creatures. A Black Turtle-Snake statue guards the north side, and a Bai Ze statue guards the south. Four Xiezhi statues are on the bridge's pillars. Both sides have carvings of a dokkaebi (Korean goblin) called nati.

Former landmarks

Jinggwangnu (징광루; 澄光樓; Chinggwangnu) was a two-story pavilion located to the northeast of Daejojeon. It was built in 1647 using materials from In'gyŏnggung. The roof tiles were blue. It was destroyed in the 1917 fire. Gyeonghungak was rebuilt in Jinggwangnu's former location in 1920.

Yeonghwidang (영휘당; 永輝堂; Yŏnghwidang) was a building to the west of Gyeonghungak. It was closely connected to another building, Okhwadang. It was destroyed by fire in 1833 and restored. It was destroyed again in the 1917 fire and never rebuilt.

Yeonyangnu (연양루; 延陽樓; Yŏnyangnu) was a small pavilion to the southeast of Yeonghwidang. It burned down in 1833, was restored, and then burned down again in 1917. It was never rebuilt.

Okhwadang (옥화당; 玉華堂) was a building to the west of Yeonghwidang. It was named in 1461. It was destroyed by fire in 1833 and restored. It was destroyed in the 1917 fire and never rebuilt.

Bogyeongdang (보경당; 寶慶堂; Pogyŏngdang) was the living quarters of Royal Noble Consort Sukbin Choe. It was the birthplace of King Sukjong. It was named in 1461. After being destroyed in 1592 during the Imjin War, it was rebuilt in 1647.

Sodeokdang (소덕당; 昭德堂; Sodŏktang) was a northern annex to Seonjeongjeon. It received the name "Sodeokdang" in 1461. It was recorded in 1565 but not shown on the 19th-century map Donggwoldo.

Taehwadang (태화당; 泰和堂; T'aehwadang) was a building to the north of Seonjeongjeon. The date of its construction is unknown, but it was recorded in 1647.

Jaedeokdang (재덕당; 才德堂; Chaedŏktang) was a building to the north of Seonjeongjeon and to the east of Taehwadang.

Junghuidang (중희당; 重熙堂; Chunghŭidang; "Continuously Shining Hall") was the East Palace's main hall and the residence of the crown prince. It was originally built in 1782, likely for Crown Prince Munhyo. It was meant to replace older buildings in the East Palace that had burned down. After Munhyo's early death, it was used as a council hall. It was moved to an unknown location in 1891, and its former location has remained empty since. Some of its former buildings still exist, including the crown prince's library, Seunghwaru (승화루; 承華樓; Sŭnghwaru), the gazebo Samsamwa (삼삼와; 三三窩), and the building Chilbunseo (칠분서; 七分序; Ch'ilbunsŏ).

Simindang (시민당; 時敏堂), Jeoseungjeon, and Nakseondang (later replaced by Nakseonjae) were together considered the East Palace. Simindang was destroyed by fire in 1780. Instead of rebuilding Simindang and the rest of the East Palace, Junghuidang was built in what became the current East Palace area inside the naejŏ.

Mansujeon (만수전; 萬壽殿; Mansujŏn) was a building behind Injeongjeon. It was completed on the 2nd day of the 4th month in 1657. It had an annex building, Chunhwijeon (춘휘전; 春暉殿; Ch'unhwijŏn), which was also completed that same year. Mansujeon burned down on the 2nd day of the 9th month in 1687. Later, Gyeongbokjeon (경복전; 景福殿; Kyŏngbokchŏn) was built in its place. Chunhwijeon was converted into a portrait hall. In 1695, it was renamed "Seonwonjeon" and became part of the Seonwonjeon complex. Queen Jeongsun died there in 1805. Gyeongbokjeon burned down on the 24th day of the 8th month in 1824.

Yeongmodang (영모당; 永慕堂; Yŏngmodang) was a hall. It was a residence of Queen Jeongsun.

Daebodan (대보단; 大報壇; Taebodan) was a building constructed to hold rituals honoring the Chinese Ming Emperor, in thanks for their help during the Imjin War. It was first built in 1704 and significantly renovated in 1749. The building was demolished between 1911 and 1921 to make way for the New Seonwonjeon.

Sujeongjeon (수정전; 壽靜殿; Sujŏngjŏn) was originally called Sujeongdang (수정당; 壽靜堂; Sujŏngdang) and received its final name in 1794. Repairs

Additional reading

• Cultural Heritage Administration Changdeokgung Palace Management Office. November 20, 2005. ISBN 9788981245290.
• Chang, Pil-Gu; Jeon, Bong-Hee (December 2013). "Construction of Sin-Seonwonjeon Shrine and Changes in the Deoksoogung and Changdeokgung Palaces Area During King Kojong's Funeral." Journal of the Architectural Institute of Korea – Planning & Design (in Korean). 29 (12): 197–208. ISSN 1226-9093 – via DBpia.