Champaner-Pavagadh Archaeological Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is located in the Panchmahal district of Gujarat, India. It is near the historical city of Champaner, which was founded in the eighth century by Vanraj Chavda, a king from the Chavda Dynasty. He named the city after his friend and general, Champa, who was also called Champaraj. The park includes forts with strong walls that begin on the Pavagadh Hill and extend into the city of Champaner. The area has many types of monuments, including ancient Chalcolithic sites, a hill fortress from an early Hindu capital, and remains of the 16th-century capital of Gujarat. These monuments include palaces, gates, arches, mosques, tombs, temples, homes, farming buildings, and water systems like stepwells and tanks, which date from the eighth to the 14th centuries. The Kalika Mata Temple, located on the top of Pavagadh Hill, which is 800 meters (2,600 feet) high, is an important Hindu shrine that draws many pilgrims each year.

The park shows the change from Hindu to Muslim culture and architecture between the late 15th and early 16th centuries, especially in an early Islamic city that has remained unchanged. It was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2004.

Geography

The Champaner-Pavagadh heritage site covers more than 1,329 hectares (3,280 acres), with a surrounding area of 2,812 hectares (6,950 acres) to help protect it. The main heritage area is 983.27 hectares (2,429.7 acres), and it includes other sites such as Kabutarkhana, Maqbara, Maqbara Mandvi, Maqbara near Patidar Village, Malik Sandal Ni Vav, Hathikhana, Sindh Mata, Sikander Ka Reuza, Babakhan Ki Dargah, Nau Kuan Sat Vavdi, and Chandrakala Vav. The site is located 50 kilometers (31 miles) east of Baroda and 42 miles (68 kilometers) south of Godhra. Its history dates back to the second century AD and includes many religious monuments built by Gujarati Sultans (from Turkey), Rajputs, and Jains. The area includes the Palace of Mahmud Begada, grandson of Ahmed Shah, who founded Ahmedabad City, as well as Jama Masjid and other mosques. The land has rolling hills and flat plateaus. There are steep rock areas formed by ancient volcanic eruptions and lava flows.

Champaner is located at 22°30′N 73°30′E, about 1 mile (1.6 km) south of Pavagadh Hill. Pavagadh Hill rises to a height of 800 meters (2,600 feet) and has reddish-yellow stone, making it one of India’s oldest rock formations. The top of the hill has rolling forested land toward Jambughoda. A historical fort on the hill holds the ancient Kalika Mata Temple. The path to the top goes through many old gates and cuts through staircase-like rock ledges with steep sides. Midway up the path is a flat area covered with rocks. Above this point, there is a very steep slope with a marble temple and two lantern towers.

History

Early archaeological findings and historical records show that the area was inhabited during the Chalcolithic period. However, it was not developed until about 400 AD. Local legends mention that the hills were believed to be connected to the right toe of the goddess Kalika, which fell on the hill.

Champaner is named after Champa Bhil, the last Bhil king of the region. He built Champaner Fort and established the city during the rule of Vanraj Chavda of Anhilwad Patan (746–806 AD). In the 11th century, Ram Gaur Tuar ruled Champaner, which remained under the Anhilwad until 1297, when it was taken over by Alauddin Khalji. During this time, the Chauhan Rajput people also lived in Champaner. The Pavagadh Hill was where the Solanki kings and Khichi Chauhans built fortresses and ruled. They lost control of Champaner in 1484.

In 1418 and around 1450, the Khichis successfully defended themselves against the Rao of Idar and Muslim rulers of Ahmedabad, thanks to the protection of the hill. However, in 1483, Malik Asad, a captain of Mahmud Begada, was attacked and killed by Raval Jaisingh. This led to the Rajputs being defeated by Sultan Begada. The hill was surrounded, and the fort was under siege for over a year. It was captured on November 17, 1484, when Kivamul Mulk and Malik Ayaz Sultani broke through the walls, destroyed the Rajput army, and injured their leaders. Raval Jaisingh was wounded and given amnesty for six months but was later killed after refusing to convert to Islam.

Raval’s son converted to Islam and was made a noble with the title "Nizam-ul-Mulk." After the fort was seized, Mahmud renamed the city "Muhmudabad Champaner." He laid the foundation stone for his mosque, built ornate structures, fortified the forts, and made the hill his "Mauliya" (Lord of the Hill). He spent 23 years developing the area and moved his capital from Ahmadabad to Champaner.

During this time, Champaner was known for its mangoes, sandalwood trees (used for building and making swords), and colorful silks. Merchants and craftsmen thrived. Mahmud died in 1511, and his successors ruled until the death of Bahadur Shah in 1536. The city had well-planned streets and whitewashed stone houses. In 1526, young Sikander Shah died, and Bahadur Shah became ruler. In 1535, the Mughal Emperor Humayun invaded and looted the city. After Bahadur Shah’s death in 1536, the capital was moved back to Ahmadabad. Champaner declined rapidly, was abandoned, and remained neglected for centuries.

Champaner was a Jain pilgrimage site. Attempts were made to erase its Jain heritage, but a court order protected its history. Jain history in the area dates back to the 3rd century BC.

• In the 3rd century BC, King Samprati built and consecrated the idol of Sambhavnatha, installed by the Svetambara Jain monk Acharya Suhastisuri.
• In 1055 AD, the Svetambara monk Acharya Gunsagarsuri consecrated a new temple for Jirawala Parshvanath and rebuilt the ancient 52-shrine temple of Abhinandanswami.
• In the 10th century AD, the Achalgacch sect of Jainism was founded at Pavagadh by Acharya Aryarakshitsuri. He opposed corrupt practices among monks and attempted reforms but failed. He then performed Sallekhana (a ritual fast to death). According to legend, the demi-goddess Mahakali appeared and stopped him, asking him to start a new order. She promised to protect its followers. In 1112 AD, Acharya Aryarakshitsuri founded the Achalgacch and installed Mahakali as its protecting deity. The idol of Mahakali was later claimed by Hindus.
• In the 12th century, Minister Tejpal built the "Sarvatobhadra" temple (meaning "auspicious on all sides").
• In 1581 AD, Acharya Vijaysensuri consecrated a temple built by Jayawant Seth.
• In the 16th century, under Acharya Kalyansagarsuri, Sheth Vardhaman and Sheth Padamshin rebuilt the shrine of Mahakali.
• In 1689 AD, Gani Shilvijay Maharaj mentioned the existence of a Neminatha temple.
• In the late 18th century, Jain monk Dipvijay Kaviraaj wrote a poem describing the temples of Jirawala Parshvanath in detail.

Many monks from the Achalgacch and Tapagacch sects consecrated temples and idols on the hill. Jain scriptures state that these shrines were once as important as those in Palitana.

It is believed that a large Svetambara temple once stood on the hill but faced multiple invasions. Its ruins were later used to build three smaller Digambar temples.

In 1803, the British visited Champaner, finding only 500 residents and a ruined, overgrown city. They rebuilt it, making it a silk exporter. However, a cholera outbreak reduced the population to 400 families by 1812. By 1829, the area was nearly deserted, and efforts to repopulate failed. In 1879, a few Bhil and Naikda tribes lived there, but the site later became known for its rulers and historical monuments.

In recent years, archaeologists and heritage groups have worked to develop Champaner as a tourist site and World Heritage location. The Baroda Heritage Trust studied the area and proposed a plan for an archaeological park. In 2004, UNESCO approved the site as a World Heritage Site, recognizing its significance as a Hindu pilgrimage center, Jain temples, medieval city layout, and sandstone-carved mosques and tombs. Tourism was later affected by the Godhra riots, which created conflicts over infrastructure development for pilgrims and tourists.

City planning

Remaining at the site are the Royal precincts, enclosed by strong walls, the entrance gate or city gate, the mosque located outside the fortifications, the royal walkway leading to the palace, and the second enclosure, which includes the unexplored area of Jahanpanah. The city's layout shows well-planned streets that lead to the city center. The residential area includes homes for both wealthy and poor people; the homes of wealthy individuals have gardens and water channels. Public parks and pavilions surround the housing areas. However, temples, mosques, and tombs are mostly found in the Pavagarh Hills. The path up the hill from the plains is called the Patha, known as the "soul of Champaner." This path has thousands of steps and is decorated with important and ornamental structures.

One of the unique features of the two historic monument areas was the creation of systems to collect rainwater. These systems included tanks or ponds in the Pavagadh hills, known as the "hill of hundred pools," and many wells in the city of Champaran, which was called the "city of thousand wells." The Vishamitri River is the only stream that starts in the Pavagadh hills and was used to supply water to wells in Champaner and tanks in Pavagadh. The tanks met the needs of pilgrims and were used for practical, recreational, spiritual, and artistic purposes. Some tanks were built by creating barriers to direct water into stone storage areas. Notable water structures include the Ganga, Yamuna, and Saraswathi Kunds on the Mauliya plateau; the Wada Talao, the largest tank fed by streams on the city's eastern side; the innovative Gaben Shah tank; the beautifully decorated spiral stepwells in public gardens and at the city entrance; and the royal summer pavilions. The water channel in the home of a noble, called the "Amir’s Manzil," is noted as an example of the "excellent craftsmanship of water structures built by those who designed palatial and religious buildings in Champaner."

Monuments

There are eleven different types of buildings at Champaner-Pavagadh, including mosques, temples, granaries, tombs, wells, walls, and terraces. The monuments are located at the base of and around Pavagadh Hill. The Heritage Trust of Baroda lists 114 monuments in the area, of which only 39 are maintained by the Archaeological Survey of India because of limited funding. The Forest Department owns 94% of the land here, while temple trusts and other religious groups provide housing for pilgrims and tourists. On the southern side near the foot of the hill, some old and damaged houses and the remains of Jain temples can also be seen.

The monuments include:
• Helical stepped well
• Sakar Khan's Dargah
• City Gate near Kasbin Talao
• Citadel walls
• City walls at the southeast corner of the citadel going up the hill
• East and South Bhadra Gates
• Sahar ki Masjid (Bohrani)
• Three cells inside the citadel wall between Sahar ki Masjid and the local fund Dharmashala
• Mandvi or Custom House
• Jami Masjid
• Stepwell north of Jama Masjid
• Kevda Masjid and Cenotaph
• Tomb with a big dome in the center and small corner domes on the way to Khajuri Masjid near Wada Talao
• Cenotaph of Kevda Masjid
• Nagina Masjid
• Cenotaph of Nagina Masjid
• Lila Gumbaz ki Masjid, Chapaner
• Kabutarkhana Pavilion on the north bank of Wada Talao near Khajuri Masjid
• Kamani Masjid
• Bawaman Mosque
• Gate No. 1 on Pavagarh Hill (Atak Gate)
• Gate No. 2 (with three gateways, Budhiya Gate)
• Gate No. 3 (Moti Gate, Sadanshah-Gate)
• Gate No. 4 with a large bastion with cells in the interior
• Sat Manzil between Gate Nos. 4 and 5 right up to bastions on top
• Mint above Gate No. 4
• Gate No. 5 near Machi (Gulan Bulan Gate)
• Gate No. 6 (Buland Darwaza)
• Makai Kothar
• Palace of Patai Rawal with tanks
• Gate No. 7 near iron bridge (Makai Gate)
• Gate No. 8 (Tarapore Gate)
• The fort of Pavagad and ruined Hindu and Jain temples on the top of Pavagad hills
• Navlakha Kothar
• Walls of fort on top

The fortress built by the Solanki kings of Gujarat was further strengthened by the Khichi Chauhans. In 1484, Sultan Mahmud Begadah captured the fort and renamed it Muhammadabad Champaner. The fortifications begin on the Mauliya plateau, which is on the hill and end on the plains. They are very large and are built with sandstone walls connected to bastions at intervals and have elegant balconies. There are several gates in the fortifications, and the enclosed area also has barracks and jails. The west gate has fortifications running from the ridge to the north, made of brick and cement, followed by a freely laid stone wall for about a mile, then a second line of old wall (30 feet high) that extends 220 yards and connects to the first line (called Atak) on the hill. The huge wall of free stone is known as Bigada's wall and encloses the Jahapanah (the world shelter) and the Bhadar or the citadel of Mahmudabad Champaner. The area enclosed by this fortification is 1 mile long and 280 yards wide. A rectangular building at the approach to the citadel is a guard room, 150 feet by 1,120 feet, with double gates and windows made of stone with intricate carvings. Shikari Kot or Hunters Fort is located to the east of the Citadel. The Bada Talao or the Great Lake is next to the ruins of the palace.

The earliest temple on Pavagadh Hill in the Mauliya plateau dates to the 10th–11th century and is dedicated to Lakulish. However, the temple is in ruins, with only the gudha mandapa (sanctum sanctorum) and Ardha mandapa (part of the antarala) remaining. Images of Lakulish, Dakshinmurthi, Brahma, Vishnu, Gajendramoksha, various forms of Shiva, Indra, seated Ambika, and Surasundaris are seen in this temple. The temple was built in the Hindu temple architecture style with garbhagriha, mandapa, and an entrance. It has elaborate carvings.

The Jain temples are divided

Issues and Controversy

On June 16, 2024, a serious act of vandalism was reported on a hill. Several Tirthankara idols, which were fixed on the sides of steps along the old path to the Kalika Mata shrine, were damaged and broken. Jain monk Jinpremvijaya led a calm but strong protest at the local collector's office, where many local Jains gathered. The protest began on the evening of June 16, 2024, and continued overnight into June 17, 2024. Most of the damaged idols were more than 400 years old, with some being even older. These idols belong only to the Śvetāmbara sect.