Zagori (Greek: Ζαγόρι; Aromanian: Zagori) is a region, a municipality, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site located in the Pindus Mountains in Epirus, northwestern Greece. The main office of the municipality is in the village of Asprangeloi. Zagori covers an area of about 1,000 square kilometers and includes 46 villages known as Zagori villages (or Zagorochoria or Zagorohoria). The area is shaped like an upside-down triangle with equal sides.

Ioannina, the provincial capital, is at the southern tip of the triangle. The southwestern side of the triangle is formed by Mitsikeli, which is 1.81 kilometers long. The northern boundary is created by the Aoos River, which flows north of Tymfi. The southeastern side follows the Varda River to Mount Mavrovouni, which is 2.1 kilometers from Metsovo. The municipality itself covers 990 square kilometers.

The area has a population of about 3,400 people, which results in a population density of 3.4 people per square kilometer. This is much lower than the average population density of 73.8 people per square kilometer for Greece as a whole.

Geography

Zagori is a place known for its beautiful natural scenery, with interesting rock formations and two National Parks. One park includes the Aoos River and the Vikos Gorge, while the other surrounds Valia Kalda, located east of the tall, snow-covered Mt Tymphe. About 46 villages in Zagori were connected by mountain roads and traditional stone bridges with arches until modern roads were built in the 1950s. These stone bridges were constructed in the 18th century using donations from merchants who lived outside the area and replaced older wooden bridges.

History

The region has been hard to reach because of its mountainous land, which may have helped shape its unique culture. The Sarakatsani people, who live there, use some Greek words from a Northern Greek dialect that is not common in other parts of Greece. Because of this, some people believe they are originally from the area.

The first signs of people living in the region are from between 17,000 and 10,000 years ago. Important ancient tools and objects were found in Kleidi Cave, near the Voidomatis River. In ancient times, the Zagori area was home to the Tymphaeans and was part of the Molossian kingdom, a Greek tribe in Epirus that controlled the region during classical times. The Molossians ruled from a town called "Molossis," near modern-day Konitsa, where the Voidomatis, Aoös, and Sarantaporos rivers meet. The Molossians were known for raising large dogs to protect their flocks from wolves and bears, and these dogs were also used in battles.

According to legend, Molossus, the tribe’s ancestor, was the son of Neoptolemus (Achilles’ son) and Andromache (Hector’s wife). Neoptolemus, also called Pyrrhus, was part of a line of Epirotan kings that included Pyrrhus, who fought against the Romans in Italy. Olympias, Alexander the Great’s mother, was a Molossian princess. Cyclopean walls in Skamneli show how long people have lived in the area. Between the 9th and 4th centuries BC, a small Molossian settlement existed near Monodendri and Vitsa, with stone houses and cemeteries that had important discoveries. Fortifications and graves from the Hellenistic period were also found in Skamneli. However, the area had few people for most of its history.

Slavic people who lived during the early Byzantine period left evidence in place names. The name "Zagori" may come from the Slavic word "Zagore," meaning "beyond the mountains." Under the Byzantine Empire, Zagori sometimes had soldiers who built villages there. Several monasteries were built with royal support, including the Votsa Monastery near Greveniti and the Transfiguration Monastery near Kleidonia, founded in the 7th century by Emperor Constantine IV Pogonatus. The St. John of Rogovou Monastery near Tsepelovo was built in 1028 by the sister of Emperor Romanos III Argyros.

From 1204 to 1337, Zagori was part of the Despotate of Epirus. In the 14th century, Zagori provided soldiers to the Ioannina garrison to protect against Albanian attacks. Ioannina, as the center of Greek rule, helped protect Zagori. In 1337, Andronikos III Paleologos’ campaigns brought Zagori briefly back under Byzantine control.

Zagori came under Serbian rule in 1348, and the Despotate of Epirus was later controlled by the Latin ruler Carlo II Tocco. In 1430, Zagori (which had only 14 villages at the time) surrendered to the Turks under Sultan Murad II. This meant Zagori had some independence, including the right to govern itself and avoid taxes in exchange for paying a set amount.

The Zagorisian League, or Koinon of the Zagorisians, was formed in 1431 after a treaty with Sinan-Pasha. This agreement, called "Voiniko," allowed Zagori to manage its own affairs. A group of elders, called the Demogerontia, led by a leader named Vekylis, handled local matters. Zagorisians also maintained a group of Sipahi cavalry, with each village contributing soldiers. The Ottoman rulers could not interfere in Zagori’s affairs, and no Ottoman soldiers were allowed to enter the area. In 1480, villages in Eastern Zagori, inhabited by Aromanians, joined the treaty.

Many place names in northern and eastern Zagori have Aromanian origins, while names in western and southern Zagori often come from Greek or Slavic languages. A 1986 study of 3,546 local place names showed that about 70% have Greek roots, while 30% come from other languages. These include 13% Aromanian, 8.3% Slavic, 5.2% Albanian, and 2.2% Turkish. In terms of language origins, 56% are Greek, with the rest from other languages.

The main income for Zagori communities came from trade, which led to people moving to other places. From the 17th century, Zagori’s economy relied heavily on money sent back by people who had moved away. This was especially common in the 18th century. Zagorisians living abroad donated many things, such as bridges, roads, fountains, schools, temples, and charities.

Until the end of Ottoman rule, native Zagorians remained socially and economically powerful. The wealthiest and most respected group were the archontes. Zagori’s past prosperity is still seen in the villages’ architecture. The area also had a rich cultural life, producing many famous scholars and benefactors for Greece.

Over time, some Orthodox Albanians, known locally as Arvanites, settled in at least 12 Zagori villages. Most Albanian settlers arrived later, after many Zagorians left for other areas. Many Arvanites married into Zagori families or were adopted by them. They often worked as village guards but sometimes became bandits. Some Arvanites from Konitsa, like those from Gorgopotamos and Chionades, worked as masons or painters in Zagori but rarely stayed there. Orthodox Albanians lived in villages like Tristeno, Aristi, Megalo Papingo, Anthrakitis, Asprangeloi, Kavallari, Kipi, Leptokarya, Monodendri, Tsepelovo, Vitsa, Vradeto, and possibly Kapesovo. Most traces of Albanians in Zagori, except for some place names, have disappeared.

At that time, Orthodox Roma families lived in most Zagori villages in small numbers. They worked as musicians and blacksmiths. Arvanites and Roma were considered metoik

Folklore

Unique traditions are connected to Hellenistic or Christian festivals. Large churches and monasteries hold special celebrations for their saint’s feast day, which can last for several days.

Special songs for mourning, called moirologia, are sung during the grieving process for the dead. Funeral practices include digging up the bones of the deceased after one to three years. The bones are cleaned, perfumed, placed in a wooden box, and stored in special rooms in each village.

Traditional architecture

Historically, all the villages in the Zagori region were connected by paths or small roads. These villages worked together like one group rather than being separate communities.

Each village is built around a central square, called the mesochori, which includes a large church, a plane tree, and a public fountain. Stone-paved streets and footpaths connect the rest of the village. Each neighborhood has its own smaller church.

Most churches in Zagori were built between the 17th and 18th centuries, though some older churches remain. In most villages, the main church is a large basilica made of stone with a wooden roof covered in slate. These churches are decorated by artists from the Epirotan region who follow the Byzantine style. The entrance to the church may have a colonnaded arcade. The bell tower is usually separate from the church.

Before the 18th century, homes were simple rectangular buildings with only a ground floor. Basements were used for stables. This style is seen in the ancient Molossian site near Vitsa. Homes are made of local stone and have roofs made of stone tiles (limestone or sandstone) that fit together without cement. These roofs need regular maintenance because of heavy snow in winter.

By the 18th and 19th centuries, homes became more complex, including multi-story manors for wealthier families. Many homes have a walled courtyard or garden. The courtyard gate is a separate structure with a stone roof that connects the house to the village. Additional buildings include a "mageirio" (kitchen), an external toilet, and stables. The main house has thick walls with an internal sand compartment for insulation. The entrance leads to a foyer called the "hagiati," which connects to rooms called "ondas" or "mantzato." The hagiati was originally an open area and may still be today. The mantzato is the main winter room with a fireplace, table, and seating that can be used as beds. A walled closet called "mesantra" is opposite the fireplace. The mantzato is often located on the south side of the house for warmth.

A wooden staircase leads from the hagiati to the upper floor landing called "krevatta," a space between bedrooms. In rare cases, the krevatta opens to a small balcony. "Glavané" is a small entrance to the attic. The basement includes cellars and storage areas that may also be used for animals.

Few old manors remain, as many have fallen into disrepair. In surviving manors, the ondas room is the largest, has a fireplace, and may include floral frescoes. It was used for hosting guests.

More than 160 arched bridges were built in the Zagori area, many still standing. These bridges, built between the 18th and 19th centuries, use local stone and have one to three arches called "kamares" in Greek. One famous example is the three-arched bridge of Plakidas, also known as Kalogeriko, near the village of Kipoi.

The Vikos Gorge

The Vikos Gorge, also called the Vikos Canyon, is a major natural feature located in the Vikos–Aoös National Park. A seasonal river flows through the gorge, which is approximately 38 kilometers long. The deepest section of the gorge is about 12 kilometers long. In the center of the main part of the gorge, far from roads and villages, there is another deep gorge called Megas Lakkos. The Voidomatis River begins in the Vikos Gorge and flows through a smaller gorge before joining the Aoös River. The Vikos Gorge is 990 meters deep near Monodendri, and the mountain, Mt Tymphe, where the gorge is located, reaches a height of 1350 meters at its highest point. It is one of the deepest gorges in the world, especially when compared to its width. The Vikos Gorge is also scientifically important because it remains in a natural state, with no human impact. It is home to endangered species and has many different types of ecosystems.

• Vikos Gorge from Beloe
• Municipality of Zagori
• Kalogeriko bridge, Vikos-Aoos National Park
• Konitsa bridge, Vikos-Aoos National Park
• Captain Arkoudas bridge
• Partial view of Kapesovo village
• Trail in the woods that leads to the Zagori region

Municipality and villages

The municipality of Zagori was created during a 2011 government change by combining five former areas. These areas became parts of Zagori and include the following communities listed in parentheses:

• Central Zagori (Agios Minas, Ano Pedina, Aristi, Asprangeloi, Vitsa, Dikorfo, Vikos, Dilofo, Dipotamo, Elati, Elafotopos, Kaloutas, Kato Pedina, Manassis, Mesovouni, Monodendri)
• East Zagori (Agia Paraskevi, Anthrakitis, Greveniti, Demati, Doliani, Elatochori, Itea, Kavallari, Karyes, Kastanonas, Makrino, Petra, Potamia, Tristeno, Flambourari)
• Papingo
• Tymfi (Vradeto, Vrysochori, Iliochori, Kapesovo, Kipoi, Koukouli, Laista, Leptokarya, Negades, Skamneli, Tsepelovo, Frangades)
• Vovousa

Famous Zagorians

• John Cassavetes, actor and director
• Marika Kotopouli, actress
• Alekos Sakellarios, director

• Manthos and Georgios Rizaris, supporters, merchants, members of Filiki Eteria, and founders of the Rizarios Religious School in Athens

• Methodios Anthrakites (1660–1736), scholar and priest
• Neophytos Doukas (1760–1845), scholar
• Georgios Gennadios (1786–1854), scholar
• Matthaios Paranikas (1832–1914), scholar, writer, and teacher
• Dimitrios Sarros (1869/70–1937), scholar, writer, soldier, and teacher
• Angelos Kitsos (1934–2008), former president of Rizarios Foundation

• Manthos Oikonomou, chancellor of Ali Pasha, member of Filiki Eteria
• Michael Dukakis, US politician and Democratic presidential nominee in 1988
• Lefteris Zagoritis, former member of the Greek Parliament