The Tubbataha Natural Park, also called the Tubbataha Reefs Natural Park (in Filipino: Bahurang Tubbataha), is a protected area in the Philippines located in the middle of the Sulu Sea. This marine and bird sanctuary includes two large atolls, the North Atoll and South Atoll, and a smaller reef named Jessie Beazley Reef. Together, these areas cover 97,030 hectares (239,800 acres; 374.6 square miles). The park is 150 kilometers (93 miles) southeast of Puerto Princesa, the capital of Palawan. The islands and reefs are part of the island municipality of Cagayancillo, which is about 130 kilometers (81 miles) to the northeast of the reef.

In December 1993, UNESCO named the Tubbataha Reefs National Park a World Heritage Site because it is a rare example of an atoll reef with many marine species. The North Islet is a nesting place for birds and marine turtles. The site is a well-preserved coral reef with a tall underwater wall, large lagoons, and two coral islands. In 1999, the Ramsar Convention listed Tubbataha as an important wetland. In 2008, the reef was nominated as one of the New7Wonders of Nature.

The national park and other parts of the Philippines are part of the Coral Triangle, a region known for its rich marine life. This area is home to 75% of all known coral species and 40% of the world’s reef fish. However, the area faces serious threats from overfishing and harmful fishing methods. Scientists who have studied the reefs since the 1980s found that the park has at least 600 fish species, 360 coral species, 11 shark species, 13 dolphin and whale species, and 100 bird species. The reefs also provide nesting areas for Hawksbill and Green sea turtles.

Geography

The natural park is in the middle of the Sulu Sea, 150 kilometers (93 miles) southeast of Puerto Princesa. It covers an area of 97,030 hectares (239,800 acres; 374.6 square miles). Jessie Beazley Reef is about 20 kilometers (12 miles) north of the two atolls.

Geology

Tubbataha Reef is located on the Cagayan Ridge, which was once an extinct underwater volcano and part of a chain of islands during the Miocene period. As a true atoll, Tubbataha is thought to have formed when fringing reefs grew around volcanic islands. This process follows Charles Darwin's theory that atolls develop around volcanic islands. Over time, as the volcanoes became inactive and the islands sank slowly, only the coral remained. The coral continued to grow upward toward the ocean surface. Today, the reef's staircase-like slopes are shaped by changes in sea level caused by the cooling and sinking of the Earth's crust beneath the Cagayan Ridge.

History

The word "Tubbataha" comes from two Sama-Bajau words: "tubba" and "taha," which together mean "a long reef exposed at low tide." Historically, the Sama-Bajau people, who live a nomadic lifestyle, visited the reef occasionally. People from the islands of Cagayancillo also visited the reef often. They used a traditional boat called a "banka" to sail and fish on "Gusong," which is the local name for Tubbataha.

Tubbataha's location in the middle of the Sulu Sea, far from nearby islands, helped protect its marine life from being overused. The two small islands in Tubbataha have no fresh water, which has prevented people from living there permanently.

In the 1980s, more fishermen began visiting Tubbataha because they started using motorized boats instead of traditional sailboats. Fish populations in other areas had dropped due to overfishing, so Tubbataha became a popular fishing spot because of its rich marine life. Some fishermen used harmful methods, such as cyanide and dynamite, to catch more fish.

Scuba divers and environmental groups worked to protect the reef by asking the government to create a national marine park. In 1988, President Corazon Aquino signed Proclamation Number 306, which made the Tubbataha Reefs a national marine park covering 332 square kilometers (82,000 acres). This was the first time in the Philippines that a marine area was declared a national park.

When the government started protecting the park, rangers first lived in a simple canvas tent. In 1996, a wooden building was built, but shifting sand made the structure unstable. Today, rangers live in a building made stronger with foam and concrete on the Southeast Islet of Tubbataha's North Atoll.

In 2006, the park was expanded to include the Jessie Beazley Reef. President Gloria Macapagal Arroyo signed Proclamation Number 1126 in 2006, increasing the park's size by 200% to 970.30 square kilometers (239,770 acres). The park was also reclassified as a natural park and is now guarded by armed rangers 24 hours a day, seven days a week.

In 2013, during the 25th anniversary of the park's creation, the World Wildlife Fund announced plans to build a modern ranger station to help stop illegal fishing. The project would cost 50 million Philippine pesos.

Tubbataha was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1993 and is managed by the Department of National Defense (DND) of the Philippines. It is currently supervised by the Palawan Council for Sustainable Development (PCSD) and the Department of Environment and Natural Resources (DENR).

In 1999, Tubbataha was listed as a Wetland of International Importance by the Ramsar Convention because of its diverse marine life and its role as a habitat for many animals.

The Tubbataha Reef Natural Park was nominated by the New7Wonders Foundation in 2007 for the New 7 Wonders of Nature but did not win.

In November 2015, Tubbataha was named the 35th ASEAN Heritage Park by the ASEAN Centre for Biodiversity.

On July 25, 2017, the Tubbataha Reef was designated a Particularly Sensitive Sea Area (PSSA) and marked as an "area to be avoided" by the International Maritime Organization.

Management

The reefs are located in the island municipality of Cagayancillo, Palawan, which is about 130 kilometers (81 miles) to the northeast. However, the park is run by the Tubbataha Management Office (TMO) in Puerto Princesa. The islands are not inhabited except for 10 to 12 park rangers who take turns living at the Ranger's Station, which is at the southern end of the North Atoll. These rangers work with a team from the Philippine Navy, Philippine Coast Guard, Municipality of Cagayancillo, and the TMO. They stay at the station for two months at a time to protect the park from unlawful actions, such as fishing and collecting marine life.

Ecology

More than 1,000 types of ocean animals live in the reef, and many are in danger of disappearing. These animals include manta rays, lionfish, sea turtles, clownfish, and sharks. Tubbataha is a place where experienced divers enjoy exploring because of its coral "walls." These walls are areas where the shallow reef ends suddenly and drops into deep water. These walls also provide homes for many fish groups. Some of the fish that live there are giant trevally, hammerhead sharks, barracudas, manta rays, small Moorish idols, napoleon wrasse, parrotfish, and moray eels. People have also seen whale sharks and tiger sharks in the area. Tubbataha is home to whales and hawksbill sea turtles (Eretmochelys imbricata), which are extremely endangered. Because it is a UNESCO World Heritage site, all living things in the area are protected.

Bright coral covers more than two-thirds of the area, and the waters around the reef are safe places for many ocean animals. The variety of life in Tubbataha is similar to the Great Barrier Reef, with 350 types of coral and 500 types of fish. In June 2009, a large number of crown-of-thorns starfish were seen, which may have harmed the reef’s health.

• A group of barracudas was photographed in Tubbataha.

Tourism

Tubbataha is considered one of the best dive sites in the world, as reported by CNN Travel. Trips to Tubbataha National Marine Park from Puerto Princesa take place during the diving season, which runs from mid-March to mid-June. This time of year has calm waves, clear skies, and water visibility of about 30 to 45 meters (98 to 148 feet). The park is approximately ten hours by boat from the city. All trips are boat-based, as there are no accommodations on the island. Visitors stay on the yacht or boat for the entire time they are in the park. During the diving season, boats used for diving are often booked years in advance, especially around Easter and the Asian holiday known as "Golden Week."

As of March 2011, the entrance fee for individuals is $75 or 3,000 Philippine pesos. In September 2010, Palawan governor Abraham Kahlil Mitra announced that residents of Palawan province can visit Tubbataha Reef without paying the conservation fee. Divers are advised to book trips in mid-April or later, as the calm seas from April to June last for a short period.

Although the sand bars near Tubbataha are not allowed for human activity, visitors can visit the Ranger Station. At the Ranger Station, tourists may buy souvenirs and explore the facility.

The park is shown on the back side of the 2010 series of the Philippine one thousand peso bill.

Ship grounding incidents

In October 1945, the ship YMS 340 ran aground on Tubbataha Reef. This caused minor damage to the reef. The USS Leland E. Thomas (DE 420) tried to pull YMS 340 from the reef but could not. It sent a radio message for help. The USS Gillette (DE 681) arrived and pulled YMS 340 off the reef. The ship was then taken to Manila by the USS Gillette and the US Navy Tug Vireo.

On October 31, 2005, the Greenpeace ship Rainbow Warrior ran aground on Tubbataha Reef. This accident damaged about 100 square meters (1,100 square feet) of reef. Greenpeace paid a fine of about $7,000. They said the accident happened because the Philippine government provided incorrect maps. A Greenpeace official said the map showed the ship was a mile and a half away from the reef when it ran aground. Greenpeace paid the fine.

On January 17, 2013, the US Navy ship USS Guardian ran aground on Tubbataha Reef. The US government first said the accident was caused by incorrect maps. Between 2011 and January 2013, there were eleven ship incidents near the reef, including two involving Philippine ships. The US Navy decided that moving the ship off the reef would cause more damage. Instead, they removed parts of the ship where it was. The last part of the ship was taken away on March 30. No fuel leaks were found from the ship.

On April 8, 2013, the US Navy gave digital maps and other documents about the USS Guardian to the Philippine Maritime Casualty Investigating Team (MCIT). The team did its own investigation and suggested ways to prevent future accidents. The US government apologized for the incident and removed five officers from their jobs. An investigation showed these officers did not follow standard US Navy navigation rules.

The World Wide Fund for Nature –Philippines and the Tubbataha Management Office measured the damage area as 2,345.67 square meters (25,248.6 square feet). The US government was fined 24,000 Philippine pesos (about $600) for each square meter of damage. On January 20, 2015, the US government paid the Philippine government 87 million Philippine pesos ($1.97 million). This included 59 million pesos for reef damage and 29 million pesos to cover costs for the Philippine Coast Guard.

• The USS Guardian ran aground in January 2013
• The USS Guardian aground as seen from above
• The ship on March 12, 2013, as it was being salvaged by Jascon25

On April 8, 2013, the Chinese fishing vessel F/V Min Long Yu ran aground 1.1 nautical miles (2.0 kilometers; 1.3 miles) east of the Tubbataha Reef ranger station. The ship had 12 crew members and was suspected of fishing illegally. Instead of fish, 400 boxes of frozen pangolins of unknown origin were found on board.