The Royal Palaces of Abomey are 10 palaces located in the center of Abomey, Benin, which was once the capital of the West African Kingdom of Dahomey. The kingdom was established in 1625 by the Fon people, who built it into a strong military and trade empire. This kingdom controlled trade with European slave traders on the Slave Coast until the late 1800s, selling prisoners of war to these traders. At its height, the palaces could hold up to 8,000 people. The king’s palace included a two-story building called the "cowrie house" or akuehue. Under the rule of 12 kings from 1625 to 1900, the kingdom became one of the most powerful on the western coast of Africa.
UNESCO added the palaces to its List of World Heritage Sites in Africa. Later, the site was placed on the List of World Heritage in Danger after a tornado struck Abomey on March 15, 1984. This storm damaged the royal enclosure, museums, and parts such as the King Guezo Portico, the Assins Room, the King’s tomb, and the Jewel Room. With help from international groups, restoration and repairs were completed. Based on these efforts and reports about the repairs, UNESCO removed the Royal Palaces of Abomey from the List of World Heritage in Danger in July 2007.
Today, the palaces are not used as homes. However, the palaces of King Ghézo and King Glélé now house the Historical Museum of Abomey. This museum shows the history of the kingdom and its symbols, including themes of independence, resistance, and fighting against colonial rule.
History
The palaces built by the 12 rulers of the Dahomey Kingdom in the protected area of Abomey served as the cultural and traditional center of the kingdom from 1695 to 1900. The first ruler to begin constructing these palaces was King Houegbadja, who also founded the city of Abomey.
According to local stories, the royal family of Abomey, who built the 12 Royal Palaces, are said to be descendants of Princess Aligbonon of Tado and a panther. Their kingdom was located in the southern part of what is now the Republic of Benin, in the city of Abomey. Historical records, however, trace the kingdom’s official history to the 17th century with two of the royal family’s descendants, Do-Aklin and Dakodonou. King Houegbadja (1645–1685) established the kingdom on the Abomey plateau and created the legal system that guided the kingdom’s governance, political roles, and rules for leadership.
King Agaja (1718–1740) defeated the kingdom of Allada in 1724 and the Kingdom of Whydah in 1727. These victories led to the deaths of many captured people, some of whom were sold as slaves in Ouidah, then known as Gléwé. These wars marked the start of Dahomey’s involvement in the slave trade, which was conducted through the port of Whydah with European traders.
In the 19th century, as Britain’s antislavery movement grew, King Guézo (1818–1858) promoted agricultural development in the region. This effort led to economic growth through the export of goods like corn and palm oil.
Between 1892 and 1894, after the Fon people of Dahomey attacked the Ouémé Valley, France declared war on Dahomey. After several French military victories during the Second Franco-Dahomean War, French forces captured the Singboji palace. King Béhanzin, the last independent king of Dahomey, and his remaining soldiers fled north as French troops entered the capital on November 17. The French made Béhanzin’s brother, Goutchili, the new king. Béhanzin was later sent to Martinique. His successor, King Agooli Agbo, ruled until his deportation to Gabon in 1900. In 1960, when the modern country of Benin gained independence from France, it was originally named Dahomey.
The official history of the kingdom was recorded and preserved in a series of colorful stone carvings.
Culture
Dahomean culture was strongly connected to great respect for the kings of Dahomey and had important religious meaning. Each king was represented on a "common appliquéd quilt." Ceremonies were an important part of the culture, including human sacrifice as one of the practices.
Traditional architecture
The town where the palaces were built was surrounded by a mud wall that was about 10 kilometers (6 miles) around. The wall had six gates and was protected by a ditch 1.5 meters (about 5 feet) deep, filled with prickly acacia plants, which were commonly used to defend strongholds in West Africa. Inside the walls, there were villages separated by fields, several royal palaces, a marketplace, and a large square with barracks. The walls were about 0.5 meters (1.5 feet) thick, which helped keep the palace rooms cool.
Each palace had a unique design chosen by the kings. The first courtyard of the palace was called the Kpododji through the Honnouwa, and the second courtyard, called the Jalalahènnou, was near the Logodo. The Ajalala, a special building with many openings, was located in the second courtyard. Its walls had images carved in bas-relief. The palaces of Glèlè and Guézo survived a fire in 1894 caused by King Béhanzin and were later restored. These palaces are now part of a museum.
The buildings were made using earth for the foundations, floors, and raised structures. Wood from palm, bamboo, iroko, and mahogany trees was used for the wooden parts. Roofs were made of straw and sheet metal.
The bas-reliefs on the walls and pillars acted as a record of important events in the history of the Fon people and their empire. They showed details about military victories, the power of each king, and the customs and beliefs of the Fon. However, in 1892, King Béhanzin ordered the city and palaces to be burned to resist French rule. Fortunately, most buildings survived the fire, and many palaces have since been restored. Copper and brass plaques decorated the walls.
The bas-reliefs were made from soil mixed with palm oil and colored using natural pigments from plants and minerals. They are one of the most notable features of the palaces and are now displayed in the museum, with replicas replacing the originals.
Many items in the museum were used in religious ceremonies by past kings. These objects are still used today by the royal family of Dahome in their religious rituals.
UNESCO recognition
In 1985, UNESCO added the Royal Palaces of Abomey to the List of World Heritage Sites under the Culture – Criteria IV category. The site includes two areas: the main palace area and the Akaba Palace Zone, located to the north-northwest. Both areas are surrounded by partially preserved cob walls. UNESCO noted that from 1625 to 1900, twelve kings ruled the Kingdom of Abomey. Each king, except King Akaba, built their palace within the same cob-wall area, following earlier traditions in design and materials. The Royal Palaces of Abomey serve as a rare reminder of this lost kingdom. In July 2007, the site was removed from the List of World Heritage Sites in Danger.
Abomey Historical Museum
The Abomey Historical Museum is located in a building that covers an area of 2 hectares (5 acres). This building was created in 1943 by the French colonial government. The museum includes all the palaces within a larger area of 40 hectares (99 acres), especially the palaces of King Guézo and King Glèlè. The museum has 1,050 exhibits, most of which belonged to the kings who ruled the Kingdom of Dahomey. These exhibits show the culture of the Kingdom of Dahomey. Some important items include a decorative quilt, traditional drums, and paintings of ceremonies and the war between France and Dahomey.
On December 24, 2020, the French government passed a new law allowing the permanent return of several cultural objects from French collections to Senegal and Benin. This followed a 2018 report about returning African cultural heritage. Twenty-six statues, taken by French soldiers during the attack on the Royal Palaces of Abomey in 1892, were donated to a museum in Paris by a French officer named Alfred Dodds. These statues were the first items returned under the new law. A loan of 20 million Euros from the French Development Agency was also given to build a new museum in Abomey.
The 26 cultural items were returned to Benin and displayed at the Palais de la Marina in Cotonou starting in early 2022. These items will be shown in museums across Benin for several years before being placed permanently in the Museum of the Epics of Amazons and Kings of Dahomey in Abomey. Returning cultural property to its original country is part of a growing global effort to address past injustices.
On January 21, 2009, a fire destroyed many buildings in the Royal Palaces of Abomey. The cause of the fire was unknown. Strong Harmattan winds spread the flames quickly, damaging the straw roofs and structures of nearby buildings. Tombs of King Agonglo, King Ghezo, and their wives were also destroyed in the fire.
Authorities quickly worked to restore the damaged buildings. Plans included removing water from the ruins and installing fire equipment to prevent future fires. International organizations helped with the restoration after the Benin government and the World Heritage Centre requested assistance.
Since 1992, many conservation efforts, building repairs, and additions to the museum’s collection have taken place. The Italian Agency for Development Cooperation funded these efforts through the “PREMA-Abomey” program. Additional support came from UNESCO, which provided $450,000, as well as the Getty Conservation Institute, Sweden, and ICCROM’s PREMA program.
The bas-reliefs (carved decorations) on the palace walls were carefully restored starting in 1993. The Getty Conservation Institute helped preserve many of these carvings, with Benin Cultural Heritage staff directly involved in the work. Many of the artists who created these carvings were from the Ouémé region.
In August 2007, Benin passed Law No. 2007-20 to protect cultural and natural heritage. In 2006, the city of Abomey created rules to help protect the Royal Palaces site. Sacred spaces within the palace area have always been respected by royal families and local people. Traditional ceremonies are also part of efforts to preserve the site.
Gallery
- Simbodji Palace following a fire in 1895
- Fon women dancing during celebrations
- Voodoo altar located in Abomey, Benin