Paphos, also spelled Pafos, is a coastal city in southwest Cyprus and the capital of the Paphos District. In ancient times, two places were known as Paphos: Old Paphos (now called Kouklia) and New Paphos. It is the fourth-largest city in Cyprus, following Nicosia, Limassol, and Larnaca, with an urban population of 55,000.

The modern city of Paphos is located on the Mediterranean coast, about 50 km (30 mi) west of Limassol, Cyprus’s largest port. The two cities are connected by the A6 highway. Paphos International Airport is the country’s second-largest airport and serves as a gateway to western and southern Cyprus. The city has a subtropical-Mediterranean climate and experiences the mildest temperatures on the island.

In 1980, Paphos was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List because of its ancient buildings, mosaics, and historical religious significance. It was chosen as a European Capital of Culture for 2017 along with Aarhus.

Geography

Paphos is the most earthquake-prone area in Cyprus. Historical records show that many strong earthquakes have occurred there, some causing serious damage, loss of life, and tsunamis. The strongest earthquakes in Paphos happened in 76 AD, 1222 (7.0–7.5), 1953 (6.5 M s ), 1995 (5.9 M w ), 1996 (6.8 M w ), and 2022 (6.6 M w ).

History

The town's name is connected to the goddess Aphrodite in its founding story. According to the myth, Paphos was the son (or, in Ovid's account, the daughter) of Pygmalion. Pygmalion was deeply devoted to Aphrodite and kept a statue of the goddess in his palace. The goddess came to life in the statue, named Galatea, and gave birth to Paphos and his sister, Metharme. Cinyras, who was either the son of Paphos or the suitor of Metharme, founded the city with Aphrodite's support and built a large temple to her there. Another story, recorded by Strabo, says the city was founded by Agapenor, a hero from the Trojan War. Pausanias wrote that a storm carried Agapenor and his fleet to Cyprus, where he established Paphos and built a sanctuary for Aphrodite at Palaepaphos.

Old Paphos, now called Kouklia, is located on a hill east of the modern city. It had a road that led to the sea and was near the Zephyrium promontory and the mouth of the Bocarus stream. Archaeology shows that Old Paphos was inhabited since the Neolithic period and was a major center for worshiping Aphrodite. The goddess was believed to have been born on the island, and the city's founding story was closely tied to her. Old Paphos became the most important place for honoring Aphrodite in the ancient world.

The names of two ancient kings, Etevandros and Akestor, were found on objects from the 7th century BC in Kourion, written in the Cypriot syllabary. The Greeks believed Aphrodite landed at Paphos when she rose from the sea. Pausanias noted that while the worship of Aphrodite in Paphos may have come from Syria, it was more likely of Phoenician origin. The Odyssey mentions a grove and altar of Aphrodite in Paphos, leading some to believe her worship existed before Homer's time (around 700 BC). Archaeology later showed that Cypriots honored a fertility goddess with a mix of Aegean and eastern traditions before Greek settlers arrived. Female figurines and charms found nearby date back to the early third millennium BC. The temple area, called the temenos, was already established before the Late Bronze Age.

Old Paphos was the main center for worshiping Aphrodite in the Aegean world. The Cinyradae, or descendants of Cinyras, were the chief priests. Though their names were Greek, they were of Phoenician origin. They held great power, but inscriptions suggest they were governed by a senate and a people's assembly. There was also an oracle there. The ruins of Aphrodite's large sanctuary are still visible, marked by large foundation walls. After an earthquake destroyed the temple, it was rebuilt by Vespasian. His coins and those of Septimius Severus show the temple's design. An architect named Gustav Friedrich Hetsch from Copenhagen tried to restore the building based on these clues.

New Paphos, or Nea Paphos, was built near the sea with a natural harbor. It was about 12 kilometers (7.5 miles) northwest of the old city. According to myth, it was founded by Agapenor, a leader of the Arcadians during the Trojan War, who was driven to Cyprus by a storm. A Greek poem mentions Agapenor as king of the Paphians, and Herodotus wrote about an Arcadian colony in Cyprus. However, an inscription shows that Nicocles, the last king of Palaepaphos, likely founded New Paphos. He built a temple to Artemis Agrotera there. People from the city of Marion were moved to New Paphos after it was destroyed by Ptolemy in 312 BC. A group of unused silver coins found in the Hellenistic House dates back to the late 4th century BC, showing when the city was founded.

Old Paphos remained the most important place for worshiping Aphrodite. Strabo wrote that a road from New Paphos to Old Paphos was crowded with people traveling to the ancient shrine each year. When Seneca mentioned that Paphos was nearly destroyed by an earthquake, it is unclear which city he referred to. Cassius Dio said the city was rebuilt by Augustus and renamed "Augusta" in his honor, though the old name remained in use.

An inscription from the 80s BC mentions a man named Onesander of Paphos who was appointed to the Great Library of Alexandria. According to the biblical Acts of the Apostles, Barnabas and Saul (later called Paul) traveled along the southern coast of Cyprus until they reached Paphos. There, the Roman proconsul Sergius Paulus was converted after Saul rebuked a sorcerer named Elymas. In Paphos, the Bible first refers to Saul as Paul.

Tacitus wrote that the young emperor Titus visited Paphos before becoming emperor and was curious about its history. He described the temple's worship, noting that the goddess was represented only by a pyramidal stone. The sanctuary was closed during the persecution of pagans in the late Roman Empire.

The Paphos Archaeological Park covers most of the ancient city and is a UNESCO World Heritage site. Important remains include four large Roman villas, such as the House of Dionysos, the House of Orpheus, the House of Aion, and the House of Theseus, all with preserved mosaic floors. Excavations also uncovered an agora, an Asklepion, the Basilica of Panagia Limeniotissa, a theatre, and a necropolis called the Tombs of the Kings.

Paphos gradually lost its importance as an administrative center, especially after the founding of Nicosia. The city and its port declined during the Middle Ages and under Ottoman rule, as Nicosia and Larnaca became more significant. During the British colonial period, many people moved to Limassol, Nicosia, and overseas, leaving Paphos and its district underdeveloped until 1974.

After the Turkish invasion of Cyprus in 1974, economic growth, especially in tourism, began in the

Economy

The economy of Paphos depends a lot on tourism. There are four resorts in the area: Kato Paphos, Coral Bay, Latchi, and Aphrodite Hills. Kato Paphos is the largest resort and provides jobs to more than half of Paphos's people. Farming, including growing bananas, grapes, and tobacco, also plays an important role in the local economy.

Landmarks

Paphos Castle is located near the harbor. It was first built as a Byzantine fort to protect the harbor. Later, the Lusignans rebuilt it in the 12th century. In 1570, the Venetians took it apart because they could not defend it against the Ottomans. The Ottomans then restored and strengthened the castle after capturing the island. Near the harbor is Saranta Kolones, a castle built during the early years of Lusignan rule, possibly on the site of an older Byzantine castle. This castle was destroyed in an earthquake in 1222.

Near Paphos, many treasures have been found, including mosaics in the Houses of Dionysos, Theseus, and Aion. These mosaics were preserved after being underground for 1,600 years. Other discoveries include vaults and caves, the Tombs of the Kings, a pillar where Saint Paul was said to have been tied and whipped, and the ancient Odeon Theatre. Other places of interest include the Byzantine Museum and the District Archaeological Museum, which has artifacts from the Paphos area dating back to the Neolithic Age up to 1700 AD. Near the Odeon are the ruins of ancient city walls, the Roman agora, and a building dedicated to Asclepius.

The mosaic floors in these elite villas, dating from the 3rd to the 5th century, are among the finest in the Eastern Mediterranean. They mainly show scenes from Greek mythology.

The city has many catacomb sites from the early Christian period. The most famous is Saint Solomoni Church, originally a Christian catacomb that still has some 12th-century frescoes. A sacred tree at the entrance is believed to cure illnesses for those who hang a personal offering on its branches.

A few kilometers outside Paphos is Petra tou Romiou, a rock in the sea. According to legend, Aphrodite rose from the waves at this spot. The name is connected to Digenis Acritas, a Byzantine frontier-guard who repelled Saracens. It is said he threw a large rock at his enemies to stop an attack. Recently, the Aphrodite Hills resort was built on this site. The resort includes a five-star hotel, an 18-hole golf course, tennis courts, fitness centers, holiday homes, and a spa.

Near Petra tou Romiou is Palaepaphos, also known as Old Paphos, a famous ancient pilgrimage site and once a city-kingdom of Cyprus. The ruins of the Sanctuary of Aphrodite Paphia are here, dating back to the 12th century BC. The temple was an important center for worshiping Aphrodite until the 3rd–4th centuries AD. A museum in the Lusignan Manor displays artifacts from the area.

Geroskipou is a town in Paphos’s area known for its sweet "loukoumi."

North-east of Paphos is Agios Neophytos Monastery, famous for its "encleistra," a carved enclosure made by a hermit in the mountain. This site has Byzantine frescoes from the 12th and 15th centuries. Nearby is the painted village church of Emba (Empa).

Four kilometers (2.5 miles) north of Paphos is the village of Lemba (Lempa), home to many artists with open studio shops. The village includes the sculpture "Great Wall of Lempa" by Cypriot artist Stass Paraskos and the Cyprus College of Art.

Off the coast of Paphos lies the wreck of M/V Demetrios II, which ran aground on March 23, 1998, during a voyage from Greece to Syria carrying timber. Similarly, on December 8, 2011, the EDRO III ran aground near the Sea Caves of Paphos, close to the Akamas Peninsula. Local authorities are hesitant to remove the ship from the rocks because the area is a protected natural park where turtles nest and rare plants and animals live.

Climate

Paphos has a hot semi-arid climate (Köppen: BSh), which is very similar to a hot-summer Mediterranean climate (Köppen: Csa). This means summers are hot and dry, while winters are mild and wet. The most rain falls between November and mid-March. In July and August, there is almost no rain, with an average of less than 0.3 millimeters (0.012 inches) each month. During these dry months, humidity can reach up to 85 percent.

Snowfall is very rare, happening about once every 10 years, and usually does not cause major problems. It occurs almost every year in the hills of Tsada, 6 kilometers (4 miles) north of Paphos. The last major snowfall in the city center was in the winter of 2001.

Frost is also very rare.

Heatwaves during July and August are common because hot air from the Sahara Desert moves over Cyprus, raising temperatures. Cyprus has faced drought-like conditions, and global warming may make these conditions worse. In 2008, Cyprus needed to bring water by ship from Greece to meet its needs. Since then, water conditions have improved because of heavy winter rains.

Transport

Paphos was once the only town in Cyprus without any roads for vehicles; this changed after the town grew quickly in less than ten years. The roads in the town center have not been updated and cannot handle the increased number of vehicles. These problems happen because some planned road projects are still only ideas, including:

• The second part of the northern ring road
• The western ring road
• The airport road
• The upgrade of the road between Paphos and Coral Bay

Buses in Paphos are managed by Osypa.

For travel between cities, the main company is Intercity Buses, which provides daily trips to all cities in the southern part of Cyprus.

The main bus station is Karavella Station. It is the central point for all intercity trips and many local routes. Another important bus station in Paphos is Kato Paphos Harbor Station, located near Paphos Harbor and the Paphos Archaeological Park.

Paphos did not have a motorway until 2001. It is now connected to Limassol through the A6 motorway. The A7 motorway from Paphos to Polis was expected to be finished by 2013, but work has not started yet because of the financial crisis in Cyprus. As of August 2023, the project is still being planned.

Since 1982, Paphos International Airport has handled air traffic. The airport is 10 km (6 mi) southeast of the city, near Timi. It serves about 1.75 million people each year. A new terminal opened next to the old one in late 2008.

The port can hold 300 boats and is used as a small marina and a shelter for fishermen. The castle’s square hosts the Aphrodite Festival every September since 1998. Other yearly events also take place there, such as the Paphos Beer Festival. Cargo and cruise ships use Limassol Port, which is 60 km (37 mi) away. A new marina is planned to be built 10 km (6 mi) north, near Coral Bay in Kissonerga. The new marina will have space for up to 1,000 boats.

Hospitals and medical centres

Paphos has one general hospital located at Anavargos, 3 km (2 mi) northeast of the city centre. It was built to replace the old hospital, which was demolished shortly after being abandoned. Now, it is a modern medical centre. There was a plan to turn it into a university hospital when Neapolis University opened. However, as of July 2017, this did not happen.

Two hospices are located in the area: The Friends Hospice and the Archangel Michael Hospice, which is supported by the Catholic Church in Cyprus.

Several private clinics are spread throughout the area, such as St George's Private Hospital, which was built in 1991.

Education

The Paphos municipality has 38 primary state schools, 8 secondary state schools (which are called gymnasiums and lyceums), 3 privately run English schools, and 1 privately run Russian school. The first elementary school in Paphos was founded in 1796 in the village of Kritou Terra.

The town of Paphos has several higher education institutions. The first one, Neapolis University, began accepting students in June 2010. The university offers a wide range of undergraduate and postgraduate programmes and has four schools. More recently, the American University of Beirut and the Cyprus University of Technology (TEPAK) were built.

Arts

Paphos has many cultural and historical places, such as the Tombs of the Kings, Mosaics, castle, and churches. It is also known for its festivals and annual events.

In September, Paphos hosts an annual opera performance at the Paphos Aphrodite Festival, which takes place at the harbor. The castle is used as a background and stage for the event. Another annual event is Open Studios Cyprus, which happens during selected weekends in October. During this time, selected artists open their studios to the public, allowing visitors to see and talk about their artwork in an informal setting.

There are several privately owned galleries and exhibition spaces in Paphos. Information about regular events can be found in local English newspapers, such as Cyprus Weekly and Cyprus Monthly. Palia Ilektriki is an exhibition and conference space managed by the Paphos Municipality. Located in the town center, this space is reused for conferences and exhibitions throughout the year. In 2009, 2010, and 2011, Open Studios Cyprus used this location to begin the event with an Opening Art Exhibition.

In 2012, Paphos was chosen as the European Capital of Culture for 2017, under the leadership of Ektor Tsatsoulis and Spyros Pisinos. In 2013, Marios Joannou Elia became the artistic director of "Pafos 2017." After the financial crisis on the island in 2013, Elia redesigned and adjusted the entire program.

Pafos 2017 – European Capital of Culture

Paphos was the European Capital of Culture in 2017, together with Aarhus, Denmark. Before 2017, many improvements were made in the city. During 2017, many cultural events happened in Paphos every month, including the Europakonzert 2017 with the Berliner Philarmoniker and the Yamato Taiko Drum Ensemble performance. The program had a large and varied group of volunteers who helped make the events successful.

Sports

Paphos has a long history in sports, with many football, basketball, and volleyball teams, including Pafos FC. The Pafian gymnastic club is named Korivos, and it manages the Aphroditi Sports hall and the Stelios Kyriakides Stadium in Paphos through the Cyprus Athletic Organisation. The stadium is named after Stylianos Kyriakides (1910–1987), a marathon runner from the nearby village of Statos who won the 1946 Boston Marathon. A newspaper report said that during the race, he was running with John Kelley when an older man in the crowd shouted, "For Greece, for your children!" This encouraged him to run faster and win the race.

Paphos was once home to the Turkish Cypriot sports team Baf Ülkü Yurdu. After the intercommunal conflict and Turkish invasion, the team moved to Morphou.

Notable people

• Kypros Nicolaides, British Cypriot expert in new ideas
• Sopater of Paphos (Σώπατρος), a writer known for humorous or exaggerated style of writing
• Evagoras Pallikarides, EOKA fighter executed by the British at age 19
• Archbishop Makarios, first President of the Republic of Cyprus
• Rauf Denktaş, Turkish-Cypriot politician
• Marios Joannou Elia, composer and artistic director
• Suat Günsel, billionaire businessman
• Sonay Adem, socialist politician
• Giorgos Lillikas, candidate in the Cyprus presidential elections
• Stavros Malas, Minister of Health and candidate in the Cyprus presidential elections
• Alex Christofi, Arjatos lokajis
• Özker Özgür, pro-unification Turkish-Cypriot politician
• Theo Paphitis, British-Cypriot businessman
• Michalis Polynikis, politician
• Andrew Theophanous, politician
• Christos Shelis, footballer
• Paul Stenning, author who lives in Paphos
• Alan Knott, former cricketer who moved here in the early 2000s

International relations

Paphos has sister city relationships with the following countries:

• France
• Russia
• Ukraine

As of October 2024, Paphos has 3 consulates.