Olympic National Park is a national park in the United States located in Washington on the Olympic Peninsula. The park includes four different areas: the Pacific coastline, alpine regions, the west-side temperate rainforest, and the forests on the drier east side. Inside the park, there are three separate ecosystems: subalpine forest and wildflower meadow, temperate forest, and the rugged Pacific coast.

President Theodore Roosevelt first named the park Mount Olympus National Monument on March 2, 1909. Later, Congress and President Franklin D. Roosevelt changed the monument to a national park on June 29, 1938. In 1976, Olympic National Park was named an International Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO, and in 1981, it was named a World Heritage Site. In 1988, Congress set aside 95% of the park (1,370 square miles [3,500 km ]) as the Olympic Wilderness. This area was later renamed Daniel J. Evans Wilderness in 2017 to honor former Washington state Governor and U.S. Senator Daniel J. Evans. While in the Senate, Evans helped create the 1988 bill that established the state's wilderness areas. This is the largest wilderness area in Washington.

Olympic National Park had over 3.7 million visitors in 2024, placing it 25th among all U.S. parks.

Natural and geologic history

The coastal part of the park includes a rough, sandy beach and a nearby forest. It is 60 miles (97 km) long but only a few miles wide, with native communities near the mouths of two rivers. The Hoh River is home to the Hoh people, and the Quileute people live in the town of La Push, located at the mouth of the Quileute River.

The beach has long stretches of untouched wilderness, ranging from 10 to 20 miles (16 to 32 km). Some areas are mostly sand, while others have heavy rocks and large boulders. Thick vegetation, wet ground, tides, and misty rainforest weather make walking difficult. The coastal area is easier to reach than the park’s interior, and few hikers travel far beyond short day hikes.

The most popular coastal trail is the 9-mile (14 km) Ozette Loop. The Park Service manages this area with a registration and reservation system to control how many people use it. The trail starts at Ozette Lake, with a 3-mile (4.8 km) section on a boardwalk through a nearly untouched coastal cedar swamp. From the ocean, a 3-mile walk includes trails that help with high tides. This area has been used by the Makah people from Neah Bay. The final 3-mile part of the trail also has a boardwalk, making it easier to walk. Another popular trail is the 0.7-mile (1.1 km) path to Second Beach, which offers views of offshore rock formations and wildlife.

Thick forests near the beach cause fallen trees to appear on the sand. The Hoh River, near the southern end of the park, carries naturally eroded wood and other materials northward, enriching the beaches. Driftwood remains a common sight today, both visually and ecologically, and can be seen in early photographs. Driftwood often comes from far away, such as the Columbia River, which once contributed large amounts to the Pacific coast.

The smaller coastal area of the park is separated from the larger inland part. President Franklin D. Roosevelt once supported connecting them with a continuous stretch of parkland.

The park is known for its unique turbidites, which are rocks or sediments that move into the ocean as tiny particles, creating layers on the ocean floor. Over time, these sediments and rocks press together, and the process repeats. The park also has tectonic mélanges, called “smell rocks” by locals because they have a strong petroleum scent. Mélanges are large rocks that appear on maps and can be as big as a house.

In the center of Olympic National Park, the Olympic Mountains rise. Their sides and ridges are covered with ancient glaciers. These mountains formed because of the Juan De Fuca Plate subduction zone, which pushed rock upward. The park’s geology includes a mix of basaltic and oceanic sedimentary rock. The number of glaciers in the park dropped from 266 in 1982 to 184 by 2009 due to climate change.

Mount Olympus, the highest peak in the western half of the range, rises to 7,965 feet (2,428 m). It receives a lot of snow and has the most glaciers of any non-volcanic mountain in the United States outside the North Cascades. The largest glacier on Mount Olympus is Hoh Glacier, which is 3.06 miles (4.93 km) long. The eastern side of the range is drier because of the rain shadow created by the western mountains. The tallest peak in the eastern part is Mount Deception, at 7,788 feet (2,374 m).

The western side of the park has temperate rainforests, such as the Hoh Rainforest and Quinault Rainforest, which receive over 12 feet (370 cm) of rain each year. These forests are among the wettest places in the United States. Unlike tropical rainforests, these forests are dominated by coniferous trees, including Sitka Spruce, Western Hemlock, Coast Douglas-fir, and Western redcedar. Mosses grow on the bark of these trees and hang from their branches in green, wet strands.

Old-growth forests also exist on the eastern side of the park, but the climate is drier. Sitka Spruce is not found there, trees are generally smaller, and the undergrowth is less dense and different in type. Near the park’s northeast edge is a rainshadow area where yearly rainfall averages about 17 inches.

Ecology

According to the A. W. Kuchler U.S. Potential Natural Vegetation Types, the park includes five classifications: Alpine Meadows and Barren, also known as Alpine tundra (52) potential vegetation type with an Alpine Meadow (11) potential vegetation form; a Fir/Hemlock (4) vegetation type with a Pacific Northwest conifer forest (1) vegetation form; a cedar/hemlock/Douglas fir vegetation type with a Pacific Northwest conifer forest (1) vegetation form; Western spruce/fir vegetation type (15) with a Rocky Mountain conifer forest (3) vegetation form; and a spruce/cedar/hemlock (1) vegetation type with a Pacific Northwest conifer forest (1) vegetation form.

The park is located on an isolated peninsula, separated from the land to the south by a high mountain range. This isolation led to the development of many plant and animal species found nowhere else, such as the Olympic Marmot, Piper's bellflower, and Flett's violet. The southwestern coastline of the Olympic Peninsula is the northernmost area on the Pacific coast of North America that was not covered by glaciers. This region served as a refuge for plants during the Last Glacial Maximum, as the distance from mountain peaks to the coast was about twice as large as it is today, allowing plants to spread to areas further north after glaciers melted.

The park supports many species native only to the Pacific Northwest coast, such as the Roosevelt elk. Scientists have recognized the park as a biological reserve and study its unique species to learn more about how plants and animals evolve. The park is home to large numbers of black bears and black-tailed deer. It also has a notable number of cougars, estimated at about 150. Mountain goats were accidentally brought into the park in the 1920s and have harmed native plants. The National Park Service has created management plans to control the goat population.

The park contains an estimated 366,000 acres (572 square miles; 1,480 square kilometers) of old-growth forests. Forest fires are rare in the rainforests on the park’s western side. However, a severe drought following the driest spring in 100 years, combined with very low snowpack from the previous winter, caused a rare rainforest fire in the summer of 2015.

Climate

Olympic National Park has two different climate types according to the Köppen climate classification system. The western half of the park has a temperate oceanic climate (Cfb), which is characterized by mild, wet winters and cool, dry summers. The eastern half has a warm-summer Mediterranean climate (Csb), which is marked by warm, dry summers and mild, wet winters. The United States Department of Agriculture reports that the plant hardiness zone at Hoh Rainforest Visitor Center is 8a, meaning the coldest temperature that plants might experience there is about 14.5 degrees Fahrenheit (−9.7 degrees Celsius) on average each year.

Human history

Before European settlers arrived, the Olympic Peninsula was home to Native American people. These groups mainly used the area for fishing and hunting. However, recent studies and archaeological research suggest that Native American tribes used the subalpine meadows more extensively than previously believed. Many Pacific Northwest indigenous cultures were harmed by European diseases and other factors before settlers arrived, which led to a much smaller Native population when early observers arrived. Today, many cultural sites and important artifacts have been found in the Olympic Mountains.

When settlers began moving into the region, industries like logging grew quickly, especially in the late 1800s and early 1900s. People started opposing logging in the 1920s after seeing large areas of forest removed. This period also saw more interest in outdoor activities, as cars made it easier for people to visit remote places like the Olympic Peninsula.

The idea to create a national park on the Olympic Peninsula began in the 1890s with explorers Lieutenant Joseph P. O'Neil and Judge James Wickersham. They worked together to protect the area. On February 22, 1897, President Grover Cleveland established the Olympic Forest Reserve, which later became Olympic National Forest in 1907. Later, President Theodore Roosevelt created Mount Olympus National Monument in 1909 to protect the summer habitat of Roosevelt elk.

Public support for protecting the area grew, and in 1938, President Franklin D. Roosevelt signed a law to create a national park. The Civilian Conservation Corps built a headquarters in 1939 with government funds. This building is now listed on the National Register of Historic Places. In 1953, the park expanded by 47,753 acres to include parts of the Pacific coastline and valleys near the Queets and Hoh rivers.

Even after the park was established, illegal logging continued in some areas, and debates over logging have lasted for many years. Logging still happens on the Olympic Peninsula but not inside the park. In 1988, the federal government created the Olympic Wilderness, a protected area covering 877,000 acres within the park. In 2017, this area was renamed the Daniel J. Evans Wilderness to honor Governor and Senator Daniel J. Evans. A plan to expand the wilderness by 125,000 acres in 2022 was not approved.

Fauna

Animals living in this national park include chipmunks, squirrels, skunks, six species of bats, weasels, coyotes, muskrats, fishers, river otters, beavers, red foxes, mountain goats, martens, bobcats, black bears, Canadian lynxes, moles, snowshoe hares, shrews, and cougars. Whales, dolphins, sea lions, seals, and sea otters swim near the park's offshore areas. Birds that live in this park, including raptors, are Winter wrens, Canada jays, Hammond's flycatchers, Wilson's warblers, Blue Grouses, Pine siskins, ravens, spotted owls, Red-breasted nuthatches, Golden-crowned kinglets, Chestnut-backed chickadees, Swainson's thrushes, Red crossbills, Hermit thrushes, Olive-sided flycatchers, bald eagles, Western tanagers, Northern pygmy owls, Townsend's warblers, Townsend's solitaires, Vaux's swifts, band-tailed pigeons, and evening grosbeaks.

Recreation

There are several roads in the park, but none go far into the interior. The park has many hiking trails, but because the park is large and remote, reaching the high country in the interior usually takes more than a weekend. The rain forest has many colorful plants and greenery, which are worth visiting even if there is a chance of rain during the trip. July, August, and September often have long dry periods.

A special feature of Olympic National Park is the chance to backpack along the beach. The park’s coastline is long enough for trips that last several days, with one full day spent walking along the beach. While walking on the beach is easier than climbing mountains, such as the Seven Lakes Basin, visitors must be careful of the tide. At the narrowest parts of the beach, high tide can reach the cliffs behind, blocking the path. Visitors must climb over several rocky areas using muddy trails and fixed ropes.

During winter, Hurricane Ridge offers many winter sports activities. The Hurricane Ridge Winter Sports Club manages the Hurricane Ridge Ski and Snowboard Area, a not-for-profit ski area that provides lessons, equipment rentals, and affordable lift tickets. The small ski area has two rope tows and one poma lift. When Hurricane Ridge Road is open, skiers, snowboarders, and others can access backcountry areas. Winter access to Hurricane Ridge Road is currently limited to Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays, depending on weather conditions. The Hurricane Ridge Winter Access Coalition is working to allow seven-day-a-week access to the road, which is the only park road that connects to alpine areas in winter.

Rafting is available on the Elwha and Hoh Rivers. Boating is common on Ozette Lake, Lake Crescent, and Lake Quinault. Fishing is allowed in several rivers, including the Ozette River, Queets River (below Tshletshy Creek), Hoh River, Quinault River (below North Shore Quinault River Bridge), Quillayute River, and Dickey River. A fishing license is not required to fish in the park. However, fishing for bull trout and Dolly Varden trout is not allowed, and these fish must be released if accidentally caught.

The Olympic National Park can be seen from the Hurricane Ridge viewpoint. The road west of the Hurricane Ridge visitor center has picnic areas and trailheads. A paved trail called the Hurricane Hill Trail is about 1.6 miles (2.6 km) long each way, with an elevation gain of about 700 feet (210 m). Snow on the trails can sometimes be seen as late as July. Other dirt trails of different lengths and difficulty levels branch off from the Hurricane Hill Trail. The picnic areas are only open during the summer and have restrooms, water, and paved access to picnic tables.

The Hurricane Ridge visitor center was destroyed by fire on May 7, 2023. Built in the 1950s, it had a 3D map of the Olympic Mountains, a media center showing nature documentaries, and a gift shop. There is no current plan for when the center will be rebuilt. In late 2023, $80 million in federal funding was approved for rebuilding the lodge and creating a temporary visitor center.

In March 2026, Washington’s National Parks Fund gave a grant of $768,483 to improve park infrastructure and support youth science programs. Park leaders mentioned that the funds would be used for search and rescue training and equipment, astronomy programs, and mules for backcountry trail work.

Elwha Ecosystem Restoration Project

The Elwha Ecosystem Restoration Project is the second-largest ecosystem restoration project in the history of the National Park Service, after the Everglades. The project involved removing the 210-foot (64 m) Glines Canyon Dam and draining its reservoir, Lake Mills, and removing the 108-foot (33 m) Elwha Dam and its reservoir, Lake Aldwell, from the Elwha River. After the dams were removed, the park planted vegetation on the slopes and river bottoms to reduce soil loss and help the environment recover faster. The main goal of the project was to restore Pacific Salmon and steelhead populations to the Elwha River. These fish had been unable to reach the upper 65 miles (105 km) of the river for over 95 years because of the dams. The dam removal was completed in 2014.