Kaziranga National Park is located in the Golaghat, Sonitpur, Biswanath, and Nagaon districts of Assam, India. The park is home to two-thirds of the world's Indian rhinoceroses and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. A census in March 2018, conducted by the Forest Department of Assam and wildlife organizations, found that there are 2,613 rhinos in the park. This includes 1,641 adult rhinos and 385 baby rhinos.

In 2006, Kaziranga National Park became a Tiger Reserve. The park has large groups of Indian elephants, wild water buffalo, and swamp deer. BirdLife International recognizes Kaziranga as an Important Bird Area for protecting birds found in specific regions. Compared to other protected areas in India, Kaziranga has done well in conserving wildlife. The park is near the Eastern Himalaya biodiversity hotspot and has many different types of plants and animals.

Kaziranga covers large areas of tall elephant grass, wetlands, and thick tropical forests. Four major rivers, including the Brahmaputra River, flow through the park, along with many small lakes and ponds. The park has inspired many books, songs, and documentaries. It celebrated its 100th anniversary in 2005, as it was first created in 1905 as a reserve forest.

Etymology

The origin of the name Kaziranga is not clearly known, but several possible explanations come from local stories and historical records. One story tells of a girl named Rawnga from a nearby village and a boy named Kazi from Karbi Anglong who fell in love. Their families did not approve of their relationship, and the couple disappeared into the forest. It is said they were never seen again, and the forest was named after them.

Some records show that in the 17th century, the Ahom king Pratap Singha visited the area and was impressed by the taste of fish. He was told the fish came from Kaziranga. Another possible meaning of the name is "Land of red goats (deer)" because the word "Kazi" in the Karbi language means "goat," and "Rangai" means "red."

History

The history of Kaziranga as a protected area began in 1904 when Mary Curzon, the wife of Lord Curzon, the Viceroy of India, visited the area. She did not see any rhinos, which were famous there, and asked her husband to take steps to protect the decreasing number of rhinos. He started planning their protection. On June 1, 1905, the Kaziranga Proposed Reserve Forest was created, covering 232 square kilometers (90 square miles).

In 1950, the Kaziranga Game Sanctuary was renamed the "Kaziranga Wildlife Sanctuary" by P. D. Stracey, a forest conservationist, to remove any ideas of hunting from the name.

In recent years, Kaziranga has faced natural and human-caused problems, such as major floods. Floods from the Brahmaputra River caused many animal deaths. In 2024, six rhinos and hundreds of deer were reported to have drowned in rising water. A separatist group called the United Liberation Front of Assam (ULFA) has hurt the economy of Assam, but Kaziranga has not been affected by the group. Since the 1980s, some ULFA rebels have been reported to protect animals and kill poachers.

Geography

Kaziranga is located between latitudes 26°30' N and 26°45' N, and longitudes 93°08' E to 93°36' E. It is found in three districts of Assam, India: the Kaliabor subdivision of Nagaon district, the Bokajan subdivision of Karbi Anglong district, and the Bokakhat subdivision of Golaghat district.

The park is about 40 km (25 mi) long from east to west and 13 km (8.1 mi) wide from north to south. Kaziranga covers an area of 378 km (146 square miles). In recent years, about 51.14 km (19.75 square miles) of the park has been lost to erosion. An additional 429 km (166 square miles) has been added to the park’s boundary and given a new status as a national park. This helps provide more habitat for wildlife and allows animals to move safely to the Karbi Anglong Hills. The park is surrounded by the Brahmaputra River on the north and east, and the Mora Diphlu River on the south. Other rivers inside the park include the Diphlu and Mora Dhansiri.

The landscape includes exposed sandbars, flood-formed lakes called beels, and elevated areas called chapories. These chapories offer shelter for animals during floods. The Indian Army has built artificial chapories to help protect wildlife. Kaziranga is one of the largest protected areas in the sub-Himalayan region and is known as a "biodiversity hotspot" because it has many different species of plants and animals.

During certain times of the year, beels and nullahs (water channels) dry up. The rainy season lasts from June to September and brings most of the park’s annual rainfall, which is about 2,220 mm (87 inches). In July and August, three-fourths of the western part of the park is flooded because the Brahmaputra River rises. Each flood covers about 70%-80% of the park for 5–10 days. This forces animals to move to higher ground outside the park, such as the Mikir Hills. In 2012, a major flood caused the deaths of 540 animals, including 13 rhinos and many hog deer. However, dry periods can also cause problems, such as food shortages and forest fires.

The park’s vegetation and animal habitats change with the seasons. In winter, shallow beels and nullahs dry up, and short grasses grow over their beds. These grasses also grow around permanent beels. After the monsoon season, herbivores like rhinoceroses move to these areas to graze.

In other parts of the park, tall grasses dry up by December and January. Park staff then burn these grasses to manage the land. After burning, some animals gather in the burnt areas to eat the ash and partially burned reeds. Winter rains help new grass grow in these areas, attracting more animals. In summer, the grasses grow quickly and become coarse, making them less appealing to animals. As temperatures rise, animals prefer to stay near water sources, such as the many beels and streams in the park. During the monsoon, beels and nullahs fill with water from rain and floods. Animals gradually move to higher ground near forests. When most of the park is flooded, animals migrate to nearby areas like the Karbi Anglong Hills.

Flora

This park has four main types of plant life: alluvial flooded grasslands, alluvial savanna woodlands, tropical moist mixed deciduous forests, and tropical semi-evergreen forests. According to Landsat data from 1986, the percentage of land covered by these plants is as follows: tall grasses cover 41%, short grasses cover 11%, open jungle covers 29%, swamps cover 4%, rivers and water bodies cover 8%, and sand covers 6%.

Thick evergreen forests near the Kanchanjhuri, Panbari, and Tamulipathar areas include trees such as Aphanamixis polystachya, Talauma hodgsonii, Dillenia indica, Garcinia tinctoria, Ficus rumphii, Cinnamomum bejolghota, and species of Syzygium. Tropical semi-evergreen forests are found near Baguri, Bimali, and Haldibari. These areas have common trees and shrubs like Albizia procera, Duabanga grandiflora, Lagerstroemia speciosa, Crateva unilocularis, Sterculia urens, Grewia serrulata, Mallotus philippensis, Bridelia retusa, Aphania rubra, Leea indica, and Leea umbraculifera.

Many different water plants grow in the lakes, ponds, and along riverbanks. The invasive water hyacinth is very common and often blocks water flow, but it is removed during destructive floods. Another invasive plant, Mimosa invisa, which is harmful to animals that eat plants, was removed by Kaziranga staff with help from the Wildlife Trust of India in 2005.

Fauna

Kaziranga has large groups of 35 mammal species that reproduce in the area. The park is home to the world’s largest group of Indian rhinoceros (2,401), wild water buffalo (1,666), and eastern swamp deer (468). Large herbivores include Indian elephants (1,940) and sambar (58). Other herbivores are the Indian muntjac, Indian boar, and Indian hog deer. Kaziranga has the largest group of wild water buffalo globally, making up about 57% of all wild water buffalo worldwide. The Indian rhinoceros, royal Bengal tiger, Asian elephant, wild water buffalo, and swamp deer are known as the "Big Five" of Kaziranga.

Kaziranga is one of the few places outside Africa where several large cat species, such as Bengal tigers and Indian leopards, reproduce in the wild. The park became a Tiger Reserve in 2007. Other cats include jungle cats, fishing cats, and leopard cats. It is also the only place in India and the world where a Golden tiger was seen in the wild.

Small mammals include the rare hispid hare, Indian gray mongoose, small Indian mongoose, large Indian civet, small Indian civet, Bengal fox, golden jackal, sloth bear, Chinese pangolin, Indian pangolin, hog badger, Chinese ferret-badger, and particolored flying squirrel. Nine of the 14 primate species in India live in the park. These include the Assamese macaque, capped and golden langur, and the hoolock gibbon, which is the only ape in India. The binturong and Asian small-clawed otter were recorded in the park in 2024.

BirdLife International has recognized Kaziranga as an Important Bird Area. The park has many migratory birds, water birds, predators, scavengers, and game birds. Species such as the lesser white-fronted goose, ferruginous duck, Baer’s pochard duck, lesser adjutant, greater adjutant, black-necked stork, and Asian openbill stork travel from Central Asia to the park in winter. Riverine birds include the Blyth’s kingfisher, white-bellied heron, Dalmatian pelican, spot-billed pelican, Nordmann’s greenshank, and black-bellied tern. Birds of prey include the rare eastern imperial eagle, greater spotted eagle, white-tailed eagle, Pallas’s fish eagle, grey-headed fish eagle, and lesser kestrel.

Kaziranga once had seven vulture species, but their numbers dropped nearly to zero, likely due to eating dead animals treated with the drug Diclofenac. Only the Indian vulture, slender-billed vulture, and white-rumped vulture remain. Game birds include the swamp francolin, Bengal florican, and pale-capped pigeon.

Other bird families in the park include the great pied hornbill and wreathed hornbill, Old World babblers like Jerdon’s and marsh babblers, weaver birds such as the common baya weaver, threatened Finn’s weavers, and bristled grassbird. Other threatened species include the black-breasted parrotbill.

Two of the world’s largest snakes, the reticulated python and Indian rock python, and the longest venomous snake, the king cobra, live in the park. Other snakes include the Indian cobra, monocled cobra, Russell’s viper, and common krait. Monitor lizards in the park are the Bengal monitor and Asian water monitor. Other reptiles include 15 turtle species, such as the endemic Assam roofed turtle, and one tortoise species, the brown tortoise. The area has 42 fish species, including the Tetraodon.

Governance

The Wildlife department of the Assam government, based in Bokakhat, manages Kaziranga National Park. The main manager of the park is the director, who holds the rank of Chief Conservator of Forests. A Divisional Forest Officer is the top administrator of the park and is supported by two Assistant Conservators of Forests. The park is divided into five areas called ranges, each led by a Range Forest Officer. These ranges are named Burapahar (headquarters at Ghorakati), Western (headquarters at Baguri), Central (headquarters at Kohora), Eastern (headquarters at Agaratoli), and Northern (headquarters at Biswanath). Each range is further split into smaller areas called beats, managed by a forester, and sub-beats, managed by a forest guard.

Kaziranga receives money from the Assam government and the Ministry of Environment, Forests & Climate Change in India through different types of budgets. Additional money comes from the Project Elephant program. Most of this money is used to pay staff wages and fund anti-poaching efforts, with only a small amount left for park development. Despite this funding, the park often lacks enough money. In 1997–1998, the park received $100,000 from the World Heritage Fund for security improvements.

Local people work in the park as laborers or in related jobs. Jobs include anti-poaching tasks, building bridges and culverts, and removing Mimosa, a harmful weed. About 100 to 200 workers are hired per range for this task. By 2007, the park also hired security guards to protect tourist vehicles. The park has a strong network of informants in nearby villages who report poacher movements and are paid for their help.

Kaziranga has the highest level of legal protection in India for wildlife. Laws from 1891, such as the Assam Forest Regulation, and newer laws like the Biodiversity Conservation Act of 2002, help protect the park. Poaching, especially of rhinos for their horns, has been a major problem. Between 1980 and 2005, 567 rhinos were killed. In 2007, 18 rhinos were killed, though the number has decreased in recent years. Some reports suggest poaching is linked to terrorist groups.

To stop poaching, the park builds and maintains anti-poaching camps, patrols regularly, gathers intelligence, and limits firearm use near the park. Since 2013, drones with cameras have been used to monitor rhinos and protect them from poachers.

Frequent flooding and heavy rains have killed animals and damaged park infrastructure. Corridors have been built to help animals cross National Highway–37 safely.

Water pollution from pesticide runoff in tea gardens and a petroleum refinery in Numaligarh harms the region’s environment. Controlled burning is used yearly to prevent forest fires.

Ecotourism

Observing wildlife, including birdwatching, is the most common activity for visitors in and around the park. Guided tours by elephant or Jeep are available for visitors. Hiking is not allowed in the park to prevent possible conflicts between humans and animals. Observation towers are located at Sohola, Mihimukh, Kathpara, Foliamari, and Harmoti for viewing wildlife. The park's landscape includes trees, grass, and many ponds, with snow-covered Lower Himalayan peaks in the background. An interpretation center at the Bagori range of Kaziranga helps visitors learn about the park. More tourists have helped people living near the park earn money through tourism-related jobs, which has increased awareness of the importance of protecting the area. A survey of tourists found that 80% enjoyed seeing rhinos the most. Foreign tourists were more likely to support park protection and job creation financially, while local tourists preferred supporting veterinary services. A new attraction, the Kaziranga National Orchid and Biodiversity Park, was recently established in Durgapur village. It features over 500 orchid species, 132 types of sour fruits and leafy vegetables, 12 cane species, 46 bamboo species, and many kinds of local fish.

Tourism helps people living near the park by providing jobs and income. As of 2007, about 35 hotels or lodges were located just outside the park, with four operated by the government. These businesses employ around 300 people. Some families also offer home stays near the park so tourists can experience local life, and hosts may drive and guide visitors into the park. There are 26 shops selling souvenirs and handmade woven cloth, owned and managed by local community members. The Ministry of Tourism, Government of India, and the United Nations Development Programme (UNDP) work together to support rural tourism in Durgapur village, which is near the Kohora range of Kaziranga. Similar efforts are also happening at 31 other sites across India.

Controversy

In 2017, Kaziranga faced strong criticism after a BBC News documentary showed a strict method of conservation that involved killing 20 people each year to protect rhinos. Because of this report, BBC News was not allowed to film in India's protected areas for five years. Although some news reports said BBC had apologized for the documentary, the BBC did not admit fault. The BBC's director general, Tony Hall, wrote in a letter that the statement "in no way constitutes an apology for our journalism." In response to the report, researchers in India offered a clearer view of the situation. They criticized BBC for imprecise reporting but also discussed challenges in Kaziranga's conservation efforts. They questioned whether the strategy of shooting anyone who entered protected areas had been helpful for protecting rhinos.

Economic valuation

The Kaziranga Tiger Reserve estimated its annual flow benefits to be 9.8 billion rupees (0.95 lakh per hectare). Important ecosystem services include habitat and refugia for wildlife (5.73 billion), gene-pool protection (3.49 billion), recreation value (21 million), biological control (150 million), and sequestration of carbon (17 million).

In popular culture

Kaziranga has been featured in many books, songs, and documentaries. The park became well-known worldwide after Robin Banerjee, a doctor who later became a photographer and filmmaker, created a documentary called Kaziranga. This film was shown on television in Berlin in 1961 and became very popular.

A children's book titled Kaziranga Trail, written by Arup Dutta, tells a story about rhinoceros poaching in the national park. This book won the Shankar's Award. An Assamese singer named Bhupen Hazarika mentions Kaziranga in one of his songs. Mark Shand, a BBC conservationist and travel writer, wrote a book and a BBC documentary called Queen of the Elephants. The book and film are about Parbati Barua, the first female mahout in recent history from Kaziranga. The book won the 1996 Thomas Cook Travel Book Award and the Prix Litteraire d'Amis. These awards helped raise awareness about the work of mahouts and the importance of Kaziranga.

Further information

• Barthakur, Ranjit; Sahgal, Bittu (2005). The Kaziranga Inheritance. Published in Mumbai by Sanctuary Asia.
• Sandesh, Kadur; Thengummoottil, George (2014). Kaziranga National Park. Published in Assam by UNESCO.
• Choudhury, Anwaruddin (2000). The Birds of Assam. Published in Guwahati by Gibbon Books and World Wide Fund for Nature.
• Choudhury, Anwaruddin (2003). Birds of Kaziranga National Park: A checklist. Published in Guwahati by Gibbon Books and The Rhino Foundation for Nature in NE India.
• Choudhury, Anwaruddin (2004). Kaziranga Wildlife in Assam. Published in India by Rupa & Co.
• Choudhury, Anwaruddin (2010). The vanishing herds: the wild water buffalo. Published in Guwahati, India by Gibbon Books, Rhino Foundation, CEPF, and COA, Taiwan.
• Dutta, Arup Kumar (1991). Unicornis: The Great Indian One Horned Rhinoceros. Published in New Delhi by Konark Publication.
• Gee, E.P. (1964). The Wild Life of India. Published in London by Collins.
• Jaws of Death —a 2005 documentary by Gautam Saikia about Kaziranga animals being hit by vehicles while crossing National Highway 37. It won the Vatavaran Award.
• Oberai, C.P.; B.S. Bonal (2002). Kaziranga: The Rhino Land. Published in New Delhi by B.R. Publishing.
• Shrivastava, Rahul; Heinen, Joel (2007). "A microsite analysis of resource use around Kaziranga National Park, India: Implications for conservation and development planning." The Journal of Environment & Development. 16 (2): 207–226. doi: 10.1177/1070496507301064. S2CID 54535379.
• Shrivastava, Rahul; Heinen, Joel (2005). "Migration and Home Gardens in the Brahmaputra Valley, Assam, India." Journal of Ecological Anthropology. 9: 20–34. doi: 10.5038/2162-4593.9.1.2.