Canal du Midi

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The Canal du Midi (French pronunciation: [kanal dy midi]; Occitan: Canal de las Doas Mars, Canal del Miègjorn [ka'nal del mjɛdˈd͡ʒuɾ]) is a 240 km (150 mi) long canal in Southern France (French: le Midi). It was originally called the Canal Royal en Languedoc (Royal Canal in Languedoc) and was renamed Canal du Midi by French revolutionaries in 1789. The canal is considered one of the greatest engineering projects of the 17th century.

The Canal du Midi (French pronunciation: [kanal dy midi]; Occitan: Canal de las Doas Mars, Canal del Miègjorn [ka'nal del mjɛdˈd͡ʒuɾ]) is a 240 km (150 mi) long canal in Southern France (French: le Midi). It was originally called the Canal Royal en Languedoc (Royal Canal in Languedoc) and was renamed Canal du Midi by French revolutionaries in 1789. The canal is considered one of the greatest engineering projects of the 17th century.

The canal connects the Garonne River to the Étang de Thau on the Mediterranean Sea. Along with the 193 km (120 mi) long Canal de Garonne, it forms the Canal des Deux Mers, which links the Atlantic Ocean to the Mediterranean Sea.

Strictly speaking, "Canal du Midi" refers to the section built from Toulouse to the Mediterranean. The Deux-Mers canal project aimed to connect several navigable waterways to join the Mediterranean and the Atlantic. These included the Canal du Midi, the Garonne River (which was partly navigable between Toulouse and Bordeaux), the Garonne Lateral Canal (built later), and the Gironde estuary beyond Bordeaux.

Jean-Baptiste Colbert approved the start of construction through a royal edict in October 1666. The goal was to improve the wheat trade, and the work was supervised by Pierre-Paul Riquet. Construction lasted from 1666 to 1681 during the reign of Louis XIV. The Canal du Midi is one of Europe’s oldest canals still in use, with the Briare Canal being an earlier example. The challenges faced during its construction are similar to those in modern inland water transport. A major challenge, identified by Pierre-Paul Riquet, was moving water from the Montagne Noire (Black Mountains) to the Seuil de Naurouze, the highest point of the canal.

The Canal du Midi was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1996 because of its outstanding engineering and artistic design. It was also named an International Historic Civil Engineering Landmark in 2016.

Introduction

The Canal du Midi is located in the southern part of France, in the areas of Hérault, Aude, and Haute-Garonne. It is 240 kilometers (150 miles) long. It begins in the west at Port de l'Embouchure near Toulouse and ends in the east at Les Onglous in Marseillan, where the canal connects to the étang de Thau, a large lake between Agde and Sète.

The Canal du Midi is a summit-level canal, meaning it rises from Toulouse over 52 kilometers (32 miles) to the Seuil de Naurouze, the highest point. From there, it descends to the sea over the remaining 188 kilometers (117 miles) to Les Onglous. The total height difference between Toulouse and the summit is 57.18 meters (187.6 feet), and the summit is at an altitude of 189.43 meters (621.5 feet).

The canal has a design depth of 2 meters (6.6 feet), with a minimum depth of 1.80 meters (5.9 feet). Boats are allowed to carry a draft (the depth of the boat below the water) of 1.50 meters (4.9 feet). However, users often report that even boats with a draft of 1.40 meters (4.6 feet) may touch the bottom in some areas due to silt. The average surface width of the canal is 20 meters (66 feet), though it varies between 16 meters (52 feet) and 20 meters (66 feet). The canal bed itself is 10 meters (33 feet) wide.

The canal’s path rises from Toulouse (1) to the Seuil de Naurouze (2), then descends to Castelnaudary (3), Carcassonne (4), and Trèbes (5). It continues to Béziers after passing through the Fonserannes Locks (6), then to Agde (7), and finally ends at Sète (8) on the étang de Thau.

The longest section of the canal, called a "canal pound," is 53.87 kilometers (33.47 miles) between Argens Lock and the Fonserannes Locks. The shortest canal pound is 105 meters (344 feet) between the two Fresquel locks.

Because of its history, the Canal du Midi has a special legal status. This was written into law in 1956 as part of the Public Code for waterways and inland navigation, later included in the General Code for public property. According to Article L. 2111-11, the public domain of the canal is based on land once given to Pierre-Paul Riquet, with boundaries set in an official report from 1772. This includes staff quarters, warehouses, and the Lampy reservoir. Rules for maintaining the canal are outlined in Articles L. 2124-20 to L. 2124-25, which assign responsibility to the public entity that owns the canal, with help from local communities and, in some cases, residents living near the water.

Under the Act of November 27, 1897, the French government owns the Canal du Midi. Its management is handled by the public organization Voies Navigables de France, which is part of the Ministry of Transport.

History

The idea of building a canal between the Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean Sea was an old dream. Many leaders, including Augustus, Nero, Charlemagne, François I, Charles IX, and Henry IV, imagined such a canal because it would help with trade and politics. In 1516, King François I brought Leonardo da Vinci to France and asked him to study a route from the Garonne River near Toulouse to the Aude River near Carcassonne.

Creating this canal would save ships and goods from traveling around the Iberian Peninsula, a journey that could take a month. At that time, ships faced dangers like piracy from the Barbary pirates.

In the 16th century, several plans were made for the canal. Nicolas Bachelier proposed one in 1539, Pierre Reneau in 1598, and Bernard Aribat de Béziers in 1617. These plans failed because they did not solve the problem of getting enough water to the canal. Another idea in 1650 suggested using water from the Ariège River to build a short canal near Toulouse, but it still did not address how to move water over high ground, like the Seuil de Naurouze.

People avoided building the canal because they feared the cost and believed it was impossible to dig such a large canal. The biggest challenge was supplying water to the highest parts of the canal.

In 1662, Pierre-Paul Riquet, a wealthy tax collector in Languedoc, proposed a better plan. He shared his idea with King Louis XIV through the Archbishop of Toulouse. The king saw the plan as a way to weaken Spain and create a lasting achievement.

Unlike rivers, canals are easier to manage because they can be built once and used all year. The Canal du Midi is a summit-level canal, meaning it must cross high ground between valleys. It needed to pass through the Seuil de Naurouze or the Seuil de Graissens.

Riquet’s plan took 30 years to develop. His father was part of a committee that studied the project. In 1660, Riquet solved the water supply problem by using water from the Montagne Noire region. He studied the area’s rivers and designed a system to collect and move water to the Seuil de Naurouze. Rivers like the Sor, Alzeau, Laudot, Rieutort, Bernassonne, and Lampy were part of his plan. The Montagne Noire gets more rain than nearby areas, making it a good source of water. Riquet planned to build three reservoirs: the Lampy-Vieux, a basin at Naurouze, and the Bassin de Saint-Ferréol.

In 1664, the Estates of Languedoc asked Riquet to test his idea. He built a small channel called the Rigole de la plaine, which moved water from the Sor River to the Seuil de Naurouze. This test proved that water could reach the highest parts of the canal. This success helped convince experts that the project was possible.

Riquet studied the water supply carefully and used the Rigole de la plaine to support his plan. While the canal’s route was not fully decided, he proposed several paths on the Atlantic side, including one through Castres and Revel. On the Mediterranean side, the route was not set yet. He planned to use the Fresquel River and Aude River to reach the coast, first at Narbonne and later at Sète.

In 1663, Riquet finalized the Atlantic route by following the Hers-Vif River valley to Toulouse. He avoided a river ford in Toulouse to ensure the canal passed through the region’s economic center.

Riquet had no formal training in engineering but learned through experiments and fieldwork. He used measurements and calculations to support his ideas. He worked with experts like Hector Boutheroüe, François Andreossy, and Pierre Campmas to improve his designs.

At his own expense, Riquet built a test canal two feet wide to show that water could reach the Seuil de Naurouze. On November 9, 1665, he successfully opened the flow. This test became the Rigole de la plaine. He also built a model of the canal on his property, including locks, tunnels, and spillways.

At the time, France faced economic challenges. Grain prices dropped, and wine production fell in 1660. Land values declined, and small farms struggled. Religious conflicts in Languedoc, like the Fronde, made it hard to collect taxes or implement policies.

Minister Colbert saw Riquet’s project as a way to boost France’s economy and strengthen absolutism in Languedoc. Riquet’s plan helped improve trade and showed the importance of engineering in solving large challenges.

Operational history of the canal

The Canal du Midi was once used to move goods and people. Today, it is mainly used by boaters and tourists.

At first, the canal was used by small sailing barges with masts that could be lowered easily. Men pulled the boats along the water. By the middle of the 18th century, horses were used to pull boats, and steam-powered tugs began crossing the Étang in 1834. By 1838, 273 boats regularly traveled the canal. Passenger and mail boats continued to operate until railways were introduced in 1857.

A postal service called "malle-poste" was set up on boats along the canal. Mail was carried by boats pulled by horses on towpaths. This method was considered advanced because it was more regular, comfortable, safe, and faster than road travel. The canal could be used all year, and a trip from Toulouse to Sète took four days.

By 1855, the travel time was reduced to 32 hours, which was about 11 kilometers per hour (6.8 miles per hour). This improvement happened because horses were replaced every 10 kilometers (6.2 miles) to pull the boats. Travelers also switched boats at locks to save time and water. Some trips even happened at night to save more time. In 1684, a trip from Toulouse to Agde cost one livre and a half. Prices were based on distance, with different rates for different people. Payment offices were placed along the route to show prices and distances.

The canal was important for moving wheat and wine from Languedoc. This trade helped the descendants of Riquet become wealthy quickly. Goods like wheat, wine, and alcohol were sent to cities like Toulouse, Bordeaux, and Marseille. The canal also brought products like soap, rice, and spices from other regions into Languedoc. However, the canal never became a major international route as planned. Its traffic remained local and national.

Freight costs varied depending on the cargo. In the 17th century, transporting wheat cost 12 deniers per quintal, and oats cost 6 deniers per quintal.

When the canal opened, most boats carried goods. These boats were 20 meters long and pulled by horses or men. Over time, the size of boats increased, from 60 tonnes at first to 120 tonnes by the early 19th century. By 1778, about 250 barges were used. In 1914, there were 126 owned boats, 70 rented boats, 300 horses, and 75 mules. By 1930, motorized barges replaced animal power. These barges helped increase trade again, but commercial shipping on the canal declined by the late 1980s. In 1856, the canal had its busiest year, moving over 110 million tonnes-kilometers of cargo and nearly 100,000 passengers.

For 250 years, horses pulled many boats, including fast barges and long commercial boats. A horse could pull up to 120 times its weight when moving cargo on water. Animal power was important for canal operations.

Mail boats, called "post vehicles," were long boats with simple shelters. Over time, these boats became faster and more comfortable, with some reaching 30 meters (98 feet) in length. Some had first-class lounges where meals were served.

The canal did not fully achieve its intended purpose because of economic and political challenges. After 200 years of use, competition from rail and road transport began to reduce its importance. The canal reached its peak in the mid-19th century. In 1858, Napoleon III gave the canal to a railway company for 40 years. This decision increased the decline of boat traffic. The railway was faster and cheaper than the canal, which had high freight rates.

Before 1859, the canal operated without competition. After that, railways in southern France began to reduce canal traffic. Freight traffic dropped by half between 1856 and 1879. The Bordeaux–Sète railway carried 200 million tonnes-kilometers of cargo in 1860. In 1898, the French government took over the canal and reduced taxes to increase traffic, which reached 80 million tonnes-kilometers in 1909.

The government tried to improve the canal by raising it to match the Freycinet gauge, which was used in northern France. However, this plan was not completed because of lack of money.

After World War I, traffic on the canal became disorganized. In 1920, motorized barges helped restore some activity. The HPLM company operated 30 boats on the canal. During World War II, traffic slowed due to oil shortages, but it recovered quickly after the war. However, the canal’s small size made it less useful for large barges. Rail and road transport became stronger competitors. Freight traffic stopped in the 1970s. In 1980, only two barges carried regular traffic between Toulouse and Sète, but they stopped in 1989 due to drought. In 1991, the French government took over management of the canal, which it still controls today.

Since the late 20th century, the canal has been used for tourism, recreation, and housing. It allows boats to travel between the Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean Sea. Today, the canal is mainly used by tourists, with activities like sailing on rented boats, dining on restaurant-boats, and staying in hotel barges. Tourism grew in the 1960s, especially from Britain, and increased further in the 1980s. The canal was shown in the BBC series Rick Stein’s French Odyssey (2005), which helped spread its popularity. The canal is now one of the busiest waterways in France, with about 80% of its passengers being foreigners, mainly from Germany and Switzerland.

The structures

The Canal du Midi is 240 km (150 mi) long and includes 328 structures, such as 63 locks, 126 bridges, 55 aqueducts, 6 dams, 1 spillway, and 1 tunnel.

Each year, the canal needs 90 million cubic meters of water. To supply this, Pierre-Paul Riquet created a system to bring water from the Montagne Noire mountains to the highest point of the canal, called the Seuil de Naurouze. This water was moved through channels called "Rigole de la montagne" (Channel of the Mountain) and "Rigole de la plaine" (Channel of the Plain). These channels connected three reservoirs—Lampy, Cammazes, and Saint-Ferréol—to the Seuil de Naurouze.

The Rigole de la Montagne was 24.269 km (15.080 mi) long and had 22 structures between Alzeau and the falls of Cammazes. The Rigole de la Plaine was 38.121 km (23.687 mi) long, at an altitude of 21.45 m (70.4 ft), and included 68 structures between the Crouzet bridge and the Seuil de Naurouze.

At first, two reservoirs supplied water to the Seuil de Naurouze. The Bassin de Saint-Ferréol, built between 1667 and 1672, had a capacity of 6.3 million cubic meters. A smaller reservoir, Bassin de Lampy (called "Lampy-Vieux"), was later replaced by "Lampy-Neuf," built between 1777 and 1782, with a capacity of 1,672,000 cubic meters.

The Bassin de Saint-Ferréol remains the main water source for the canal. It covers 67 hectares (170 acres) and is fed by the Montagne Noire through the Channel of the Mountain, which is also supplied by the Lampy basin. A dam 786 m (2,579 ft) long and 149 m (489 ft) wide holds the water. A museum near the dam displays information about its construction.

An original plan for a third reservoir, Naurouze, was abandoned in 1680 due to silt buildup. A floodway was later dug to drain the Naurouze basin. Additional reservoirs were built at Carcassonne to supply the lower part of the canal. Rivers like the Fresquel, Cesse, and Orbiel added water to the canal, while the Orb River at Béziers provided extra flow. In 1957, the Cammazes dam, with a capacity of 20 million cubic meters, was completed. Four million cubic meters of this water are used to supply the Canal du Midi.

The first locks built by Riquet on the Toulouse plain were experimental but failed because their wooden foundations collapsed. Riquet redesigned the locks with rounded walls that could better handle pressure. These locks, built in stone and sealed with lime, had two double-leaf doors. A "vantelle" (valve) controlled by a rack and pinion system allowed water to drain from the lock chamber.

The locks built by Riquet were 29.2 m (96 ft) long, 5.8 m (19 ft) wide at the doors, 11 m (36 ft) wide in the center, and 2.5 m (8.2 ft) tall on average. Many locks were modified in the 20th century and no longer have their original features.

At Béziers, eight locks called Fonsérannes were carved into solid rock on a hillside. These locks had the same water volume but different shapes. They were built by two illiterate brothers, the Medhailes, with a workforce mostly made of women.

Some locks are architectural highlights. For example, the Agde Round Lock has three doors: two for the canal and one for the Hérault River, allowing triple access and protecting the canal from flooding. Other locks, like Fonserannes Lock, have multiple chambers to save on doors and foundations in steep areas.

Today, most locks are electrified, replacing manual operation.

Ports were built along the canal for loading goods and stopping travelers. Toulouse had two ports: the Port de l'Embouchure, where the Canal du Midi, Canal de Brienne, and Lateral Canal of the Garonne meet, and Port Saint-Sauveur near the Hall of Grains. Two other ports, Port des Minimes and Port Saint-Etienne, were destroyed for urban development and replaced by towpaths.

Castelnaudary’s Grand Basin, built between 1666 and 1671, was a major stop between Toulouse and Sète. Cybelle Island protected barges from wind. Carcassonne, a major tourist stop, has a port built in 1810. Trèbes is a major port with many moorings. Other important ports include Homps and Le Somail. Near the Mediterranean, the canal has ports at Agde and Onglous.

Newer ports, such as Port-Sud in Ramonville-Saint-Agne and Port-Lauragais near Avignonet-Lauragais, were built for residential barges and highway access.

Several aqueducts were built along the canal to allow it to cross rivers. These structures prevent flooding and silt buildup. Some aqueducts date to Riquet’s time, while others were added later, especially after improvements suggested by Vauban. Key aqueducts include the Orb aqueduct (PK 208), built in 1857, and the Répudre aqueduct (PK 159), constructed between 1667 and 1676 to span the Répudre River.

Flora and fauna

The canal is a long strip of water that runs through the land and is home to many types of animals. Several kinds of fish, like bream, lay their eggs in the canal. Other fish reproduce in the rivers connected to the canal and spend part of their lives there. Soft-bodied animals such as anadontes, a type of freshwater mussel, and corbicules, a kind of freshwater clam, live in the canal. Invasive coypus, also known as river rats or nutrias, and muskrats from the Americas dig into the canal's banks, causing damage. Many animals and birds also visit the canal to drink water.

The canal is also covered with a lot of plant life. Pierre-Paul Riquet, an engineer, planted trees along the canal to help hold the banks together, especially where the canal was visible from the surrounding land. Willow trees were often used because they grow quickly. Riquet also planted irises along the canal to help prevent the banks from sinking. In the 18th century, the trees along the canal became a source of income. Mulberry trees were planted to grow silkworms, but after silk production ended in 1772, these trees were replaced with Italian poplars, which produced more wood. Fruit trees were also planted near structures and lock-keepers' homes. During the French Revolution, there were about 60,000 trees planted around the canal, compared to 45,000 at the start. Plane trees began to be planted during the First Empire to replace trees that were cut down. Today, plane trees are the most common type along the canal.

However, for many years, plane trees have been affected by a disease called canker stain, which is caused by a tiny fungus named Ceratocystis platani. The first cases were found in 2006, and by 2008, 83 plane trees were infected. By 2009, the number had risen to 153. Efforts to cut down some trees to stop the disease did not work. There is no known cure for the disease. In 2011, 211 locations and 1,338 sick trees were identified. In 15 to 20 years, all 42,000 plane trees along the Canal du Midi will need to be removed and replaced, mainly with ash and lime trees. Experiments have already been done with a type of plane tree that is resistant to the fungus.

The Canal du Midi as a model

The Canal du Midi was a major accomplishment from the late 17th century. Riquet studied the water system of the Montagne Noire and used his knowledge to build the canal. King Louis XIV, who supported the project, saw it as a symbol of his dedication to grand achievements.

The canal was praised in the Encyclopedia or Reasoned Dictionary of Science, Arts, and Crafts by Diderot and D'Alembert in 1765. They described it as a great work, comparing it to Roman structures. Another writer, Joseph Jerome Lefrancois Lalande, wrote about the canal’s engineering and water management skills in his book The Navigation Canals and Especially the Canal de Languedoc in 1778. Bernard Forest de Bélidor also honored the designer in his work Hydraulic Architecture. During the Age of Enlightenment, the canal was the only one of its size in Europe and became a model for others.

In 1787, Thomas Jefferson, a politician, architect, and future president of the United States, visited the Canal du Midi while serving as the U.S. ambassador to France. He planned to create a similar waterway in the United States to connect the Potomac River to Lake Erie.

In the 1820s, István Széchenyi, a Hungarian reformer, visited France and was deeply impressed by the Canal du Midi. This experience inspired him to improve water travel on the lower Danube and Tisza rivers, which he later worked to achieve.

People linked to the canal

  • Pierre-Paul Riquet, the designer of the Canal du Midi. He received permission from the king to own and operate the Canal du Midi for life, and this right passed to his descendants. He died in October 1680, just before the canal was finished.
  • Jean-Baptiste Colbert, Louis XIV's financial officer. He was asked by the king to evaluate how much the project would cost and whether it could be completed.
  • Sebastien Le Prestre de Vauban, the royal architect and engineer. He made many improvements to the canal between 1685 and 1686.
  • François Andreossy, a close assistant and deputy of Pierre-Paul Riquet. He continued the work on the canal after Riquet's death.
  • Louis Nicolas de Clerville, an engineer who managed the construction and provided advice to Riquet.

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