The Cathedral of Saint Mary of Burgos (Spanish: Catedral de Burgos) is a Catholic church dedicated to the Virgin Mary. It is located in the historical center of the Spanish city of Burgos. Its official name is the Holy Metropolitan Cathedral Basilica Church of Saint Mary of Burgos (Spanish: Santa Iglesia Catedral Basílica Metropolitana de Santa María de Burgos).

Construction of the cathedral began in 1221. It was built in the style of French Gothic architecture and follows a Latin cross design. After a long break of nearly 200 years, the cathedral was decorated with many beautiful additions during the 15th and 16th centuries. These included the spires on the main facade, the Chapel of the Constable, and the dome of the transept. These features are part of the flamboyant Gothic style, which gives the cathedral its unique appearance. Important final works, such as the Sacristy and the Chapel of Saint Thecla, were completed in the 18th century. During this time, the Gothic entrances on the main facade were also changed. The cathedral is primarily Gothic in style, but it also includes some decorative elements from the Renaissance and Baroque periods. The stone used for construction and renovations was taken from limestone quarries in the nearby town of Hontoria de la Cantera.

Many works by famous artists are preserved in the cathedral. These include creations by members of the Colonia family (Juan, Simón, and Francisco), architect Juan de Vallejo, sculptors Gil de Siloé, Felipe Bigarny, Rodrigo de la Haya, Martín de la Haya, Juan de Ancheta, and Juan Pascual de Mena, sculptor and architect Diego Siloe, fencer Cristóbal de Andino, glazier Arnao de Flandes, and painters Alonso de Sedano, Mateo Cerezo, Sebastiano del Piombo, and Juan Rizi.

The main facade of the cathedral is similar to the purest French Gothic style found in cathedrals like those in Paris and Reims. The interior design is inspired by Bourges Cathedral. The facade has three levels and is topped by two square bell towers. The spires, which show Germanic influences, were added in the 15th century by Juan de Colonia. The Sarmental and la Coronería portals were built in the 13th-century Gothic style, while the portal de la Pellejería includes 16th-century Plateresques-Renaissance influences.

The cathedral was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site on October 31, 1984. It is the only Spanish cathedral with this distinction on its own, not as part of a city’s historic center (like Salamanca, Santiago de Compostela, Ávila, Córdoba, Toledo, Alcalá de Henares, or Cuenca) or with other buildings (as in Seville). Its design is similar to that of Brussels Cathedral.

History of the cathedral

Burgos became a bishopric in 1075 by King Alfonso VI of León and Castile, known as "the Brave," with the approval of Pope Gregory VII. This action continued the official religious tradition of the diocese of Oca, which had a bishop recorded as a signatory to the Third Council of Toledo in 589 during the Visigoth reign.

The king dedicated the construction of a cathedral to the Virgin Mary. The design is unknown, but it is believed to be Romanesque, similar to works from the Abbey of Santo Domingo de Silos, the Monastery of San Pedro de Arlanza, San Martín de Tours de Frómista, or the Cathedral of Jaca. Documents show the king donated the outdoor area of the royal palace, which had belonged to his father, Ferdinand I of León, and a small church under construction dedicated to Saint Mary.

By 1096, the church was completed. However, it soon became too small for the city, which was the symbolic capital of the kingdom, a powerful bishopric (the cathedral chapter had over thirty canons before 1200), and a growing commercial center. A decision to build a new cathedral was made in the 13th century. The Romanesque building was destroyed (only some sculptural pieces remain), likely during the second construction phase of the new Gothic cathedral in the 1240s and 1250s. The new cathedral was built on the same site, with the demolition of nearby homes and donations by Bishop Marino.

The first stone of the new cathedral was laid on June 20, 1221, in the presence of King Ferdinand III and Bishop Maurice of Burgos, who had been the bishop since 1213. Pope Honorius III granted an indulgence to all contributors. The first master builder was likely an anonymous French architect, though some sources mention Canon Johan de Champagne, cited in a 1227 document. Bishop Maurice may have brought him to Burgos after arranging the marriage of the king to Elisabeth of Swabia. The wedding took place in the old Romanesque cathedral.

The cathedral was built at the base of the hill where the Castle of Burgos rises. Construction began at the front and the presbytery, where the founding bishop was buried. His remains were later moved to the center of the chapter choir. By 1240, Master Enrique became the master architect, later responsible for the Cathedral of León and inspired by the Cathedral of Reims. By 1238, the front, much of the transept, and the naves were nearly completed. The cathedral was consecrated in 1260, though services began earlier in 1230.

The aisle chapels were completed between the late 13th and early 14th centuries, and a new cloister was built. Master Enrique died in 1277 and was succeeded by Master Juan Pérez, then Aparicio Pérez (active in 1327), Pedro Sánchez de Molina, and Martín Fernández, who died in 1396 and 1418, respectively.

In the 15th century, the Colonia family from Cologne added the open spires of the main facade (1442–1458), the dome over the transept, and the Chapel of the Constables. In the 16th century, Juan de Vallejo and Felipe Vigarny built a new dome, replacing the original cimborio (a domed crossing tower) destroyed by a hurricane. This cimborio is a two-story octagonal lantern with intricate decoration. In the 18th century, the Churrigueresque Chapel of Saint Thecla (completed in 1734), the Chapel of the Relics, and the Sacristy were built.

One notable bishop of Burgos was Alphonsus a Sancta Maria, a 15th-century scholar and historian.

The cathedral’s many artworks from the 13th to 18th centuries survived because no major restorations occurred in the 19th and 20th centuries.

Outside the new cloister, the chapel of the Santo Cristo or Our Lady of the Remedies was reformed after 1800. The crucifix of the Holy Christ was moved from the Convento de San Agustín to this chapel, which later became known as the Chapel of the Santo Cristo de Burgos. In the 1890s, Vicente Lampérez y Romea, the cathedral’s master architect from 1887, restored the chapel by removing added plaster, renovating the vault, and installing neo-Gothic windows and blind arcades.

Between 1899 and 1911, Lampérez restored the New Cloister, restoring its original shape by removing a third level with Baroque windows and reopening original cloister windows. He also used traditional techniques to install ornamental windows. The lower cloister was significantly restored, with its rib design (likely late Gothic) attributed to Lampérez. A stairwell previously added in the southwest corner was likely removed during this work, and the connection between cloister levels now uses a wooden staircase beneath the Chapel of Saint Jerome.

A recent restoration by architect Marcos Rico Santamaría replaced the roof with a lightweight steel frame. A glass surface was added to the rib star in the center of the transept’s tower, allowing light to enter. Few changes have been made to the cathedral’s structure or sculptures. On August 12, 1994, a statue of Saint Lawrence fell from the north tower, highlighting the need for conservation.

Other recent efforts, such as the removal of the Archbishop’s Palace in the early 20th century, have enhanced the cathedral without altering its structure.

Exterior building

When you walk down the stairs to the Plaza de Santa María, you face the western side of the cathedral. This side was inspired by the cathedrals in Paris and Reims.

The Portal of Saint Mary has three pointed arches. The middle arch is called the Royal Door, or the Door of Forgiveness. The two side arches are dedicated to the Assumption and the Immaculate Conception. This portal was built in the 13th century and, because it features many images of the Virgin, it was considered the most important example of Gothic sculpture in Castile. The side arches were rebuilt in 1663 by Juan de Pobes due to damage. In 1790, the central arch was rebuilt in a Neoclassical style, with flat lintels and a triangular top. The areas above the side arches have carvings of the Conception and the Coronation, created by Juan de Pobes. Above these, two sets of arches support small statues.

The second part of the facade was also built in the 13th century. It has a central circular window with a six-pointed star design, similar to one found in Cistercian monasteries.

The third part of the facade includes a tall, elegant gallery with many spires and tall points. It has two large windows with intricate designs and three rounded openings. Under the eight arches that form the windows are statues of the first eight kings of Castile, from Ferdinand I of León "the Magnus" to Ferdinand III of Castile "the Saint." Above these, a thin rail with pointed arches holds a statue of the Virgin and Child. The inscription "Pulchra es et decora" (meaning "Thou art fair and beautiful") appears nearby. This part was added in the mid-15th century by Juan de Colonia.

Two nearly identical towers were built in the 13th century on either side of the main portal. Each tower has three levels with decorated pillars, statues at the corners, and windows with stained glass. The first level has a single window with an oculus, the second has two windows without tracery, and the third has two windows with tracery.

In the middle of the 15th century, Juan de Colonia added tall, open pyramidal spires to the towers, based on designs from the Cologne Cathedral. These spires helped shape the appearance of the Burgos Cathedral. The spires were funded by Bishop Alonso de Cartagena and his successor, Luis de Acuña. Their family crests, along with symbols of the Castilian-Leonese monarchy, appear on the tops of the towers. On these tops, Juan de Colonia also added the inscription "pax vobis" (meaning "peace be with you") and statues of Christ showing his footsteps of the Passion, and "ecce agnus dei" (meaning "behold the Lamb of God") with a statue of Saint John the Baptist.

Two rounded towers mark the facade, decorated with arches, statues, and spires. Inside these towers are spiral staircases leading to the upper parts of the cathedral.

• The facade of Saint Mary of the Cathedral of Burgos was painted by Jenaro Pérez Villaamil and Charles Claude Bachelier in 1850 and published in the work España artística y monumental.

Less known as the Sacramental Door, this entrance is located in the southern transept and opens to the Plaza del Rey San Fernando. It was built between 1230 and 1240 and is one of the finest examples of Gothic sculpture in 13th-century Spain. It focuses on the image of Christ in Majesty but uses a new artistic style.

The central part of the door, called the tympanum, is believed to have been created by a French artist known as the Master of the Beau Dieu of Amiens. This area shows seated Jesus holding a book, surrounded by the Four Evangelists, who are depicted both as figures writing and as symbolic creatures. Below, the Twelve Apostles sit in a row. The tympanum is surrounded by three arches with scenes of the 24 Elders of the Apocalypse, angels, and symbols of the Arts. Local sculptors, guided by French artists, carved these images.

The door is divided by a central pillar, which holds a canopy with an image of a lamb, possibly representing a bishop. This figure is traditionally identified as D. Mauricio, though it may be D. Asterio or Saint Indaletius, the first bishop of Almería. On the sides of the door, six figures are carved, including Moses, Aaron, Saint Peter, and Saint Paul. The other two figures are harder to identify.

The rest of the gable above the door includes strong supports with pinnacles. This part was added later in the late 13th century. It has a rosette and an open gallery with three arches, each with intricate designs. These arches support statues of angels and scenes from the Divine Liturgy, where Christ gives the Eucharist.

Currently, visitors enter the cathedral through the Door of the Sarmental.

In the gable of the north transept, at the height of the calle Fernán González but higher than the cathedral floor, the Door of the Coronería, or the Door of the Apostles, is located. This door connects to the nave through the Golden Staircase by Diego de Siloé. It was built between 1250 and 1257 by local artists from the circle of master Enrique, sometimes called the master of the Coronería. While Gothic in style, some themes reflect Romanesque traditions. In the 18th century, the area around the door was renovated with a Baroque-style arch, replacing a Gothic design that showed God the Father. The door was later closed due to heavy use by people carrying supplies. This ended a tradition of pilgrims entering the cathedral through this door on the Camino de Santiago.

Below and above the sides of the door, the walls have rows of pointed arches. These arches rest on paired columns with carved plant designs. Under these, there is a row of statues of the Twelve Apostles, each about life-sized and attached to the wall.

The three arches surrounding the door are decorated with carvings.

Interior

Inside, there are many important examples of architecture, sculpture, and painting. Some key features include:

• A dome with a Gothic-Plateresque style, built by Juan de Colonia in the 15th century.
• The Chapel del Constable, designed in the Isabelline Gothic style, created by the Colonia family, Diego de Siloé, and Felipe Bigarny.
• A Spanish-Flemish Gothic altarpiece made by Gil de Siloé for the Chapel of Saint Anne.
• Choir stalls decorated in the Renaissance Plateresque style, created by Bigarny.
• Late Gothic carvings on the girola, also made by Bigarny.
• Many tombs from the Gothic and Renaissance periods.
• A Renaissance Golden staircase built by Diego de Siloé in the early 1520s. This staircase was inspired by the stairway in the Cortile Belvedere at the Vatican, designed by Bramante.
• The Santísimo Cristo de Burgos, an important religious image with a long history of devotion.
• The tomb of El Cid and his wife, Doña Jimena, including his letter of down payment and his chest.
• The Papamoscas, a moving statue that opens its mouth to signal the time.

• The Facade of the Coronería of the Cathedral of Burgos, painted by Jenaro Pérez Villaamil and Manson in 1850. This work was published in España artística y monumental.

Gallery

• A view of the Burgos Cathedral
• The cathedral as seen during nighttime
• The interior of the Constable chapel
• An exterior view of the Constable chapel
• A detailed look at the exterior of the Constable chapel
• The octagonal crossing lantern, also known as the cimborrio tower
• The south side of the cathedral, viewed from the Plaza de San Fernando
• The Mudéjar-style ceiling in the Chapter room
• The interior of the Major chapel
• The golden staircase
• The cloister area
• The east side's Pellejería facade
• A detailed view of the Constables' tomb
• The sepulcher of Alfonso de Cartagena located in the Chapel of the Visitation of the Cathedral of Burgos
• El Cid's chest
• The Papamoscas clock
• An image of the cathedral from the year 1911
• A view of the cathedral during the 2011 White Night festival
• The holy door used for the Holy Year of Mercy, 2015–2016
• The cathedral located in Burgos, Spain
• A side view of the cathedral in Burgos, Spain